Passes & Canyons Blog

The RMMRC is leaving in a few days on this New Mexico ride and at last week’s meeting someone asked me which bike I’ll be riding. Gosh, I hadn’t even thought about that. I guess I ought to.

The Honda CB750 was out right away because its tires are too thin and would not be enough for a 1,500-mile trip. That left the Concours and the V-Strom.

I figured what I really ought to do is take both of them out for runs and see which seems to be most ready, or else figure out what each of them might need.

I checked the tires on the V-Strom and the air was good. Check. Tires are good. Check. My top bag has suffered some damage in a couple times dropping the bike but I pulled out a strap that secures it well so no worries there. Check.

How is the oil? I just got the oil changed in my car the day before because I realized I had pretty much forgotten about paying it any attention. And I couldn’t remember the last time I changed the oil in the V.

I checked, which first meant figuring out how. That’s how bad an owner I am. So there’s a sight glass and you’re supposed to hold it level and check the level in the sight glass. Well, I didn’t see anything in the sight glass. I figured it would be good to take it for a ride over to Vickery to get some oil. That way I would also get a chance to see how it’s running.

It ran great. One thing I like about this bike is that it always runs great. I’ve had my troubles periodically with the Concours and the CB but the V-Strom, as they say, is bullet-proof.

I got home, put in some oil, checked the sight glass, put in some more, and it looked fine. So this bike is ready to go. I guess I’ll be riding the V-Strom. But now I really ought to check the air and oil in the Concours, just because they need to be checked. And if I do that before I leave, and I take it for a ride, maybe I’ll change my mind about which bike to ride. After all, the Concours is a really fine highway bike . . .

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker when you hate the fact that you were in front of your computer long enough to read this and not on your scoot.

I had forgotten to mention one thing about our recent OFMC trip: all of a sudden my Concours decided to run well again.

I had been having a series of problems with this bike. I didn’t know how long this had been going on till just now when I looked back on times I’ve written about these problems. The first mention I encountered was from December 28, 2020. Almost two years. Dang.

At that time I told how I had rolled the bike out for a ride, fired it up and let it warm up, and then took off, only to have it die about 10 feet out of the driveway. It seemed to be acting the way it had in the past when I had inadvertently left the gas petcock on Prime rather then in the On or Reserve positions. Why this thing even has Prime I don’t understand. So I did what had worked in the past, I changed the oil. After that it ran fine and I thought I had solved the problem.

Not so easy. The next few times I rode it it wouldn’t run well at first and I would ride around the neighborhood before just to see before going further from home. It would die coming to a stop so I’d rev it a bit as I stopped.

I did some searching and found information suggesting maybe the air filter was clogged with oil, so I replaced the oil filter. No improvement so I checked on the Concours Owners Group forum and came up with the possibility of hydrolock. But as far as I could tell that was not the issue either so finally I resigned myself to calling in Joel, my mechanic, and paying the price.

But then I met a guy who suggested clearing the fuel line using carb cleaner. I did that and it helped a lot. Maybe I wouldn’t need to pay Joel after all. The immediate improvement was great and I hoped it would just get better and better. But it didn’t. Eventually I did have Joel clean the carburetors. By now it was April of 2021.

Come July of 2021 I went on the OFMC trip on the Concours after Joel had cleaned the carbs and the bike ran well but not perfectly. And at times it seemed like the throttle would stick and the engine would race like crazy at a stop and there was nothing I could do. Arrgh!

After that trip I had Joel work on it some more and it finally was good enough and I figured I’d just have to live with revving it a bit until it got fully warmed up, and accepting that it had a delayed response to twisting the throttle. Not great but livable. And that’s where matters rested as of October 2021 and all through 2022.

Until the day before this year’s OFMC trip. I was getting ready to leave and figured I should take the bike for a spin just to make sure it was operating well before I took off and miraculously it didn’t run OK, it ran great! It ran the best it had run in two years. No long warm-up needed, no delayed throttle response, none of that.

And then the next day and on the whole trip and every time I’ve ridden it since then it has run like a new bike again. The impression I get is that for a long time there was some blockage in the fuel line and all of a sudden, finally, it got cleared out all on its own. I’m so happy! It’s just night and day how much better it runs. FINALLY!!

Biker Quote for Today

The best invention after the wheel was putting two of them together.

I’ve had motorcycle batteries on my mind recently because one of my bikes has one that is a bit long in the tooth. I’ve had battery troubles while on the road before and I’d rather be preemptive than have to interrupt a trip with problems.

So it was with some interest that within two days I got emails, both from Adventure Rider, about two hot new batteries, both claiming to be the best ever. One is by Shorai and the other is Antigravity. I’ve never heard of either of them. So what do ya got?

Shorai says this: “Originally founded in 2010 in Sunnyvale, CA, Shorai LFX has quickly become the world’s most popular lithium iron phosphate power sports battery. Shorai LFX™ batteries deliver more energy faster, with less weight and with less wear on the battery per start cycle than any other brand or technology available on the market today.”

I figured I’d take a look at what they have for my 1999 Concours. Wrong. Their selections don’t go back to that model, so I looked at other model bikes that might use the same battery. What I came to was the Shorai LFX21A6-BS12, which listed at $245.95. OK, that’s pricey. Maybe check for a battery for the 2006 V-Strom 650.

OK, that brought me to the Shorai LFX18A1-BS12, which lists for $209.95. That’s still a bit high but I guess it depends on what you get for the money. And that’s actually kind of hard to get a handle on. Not surprisingly these lithium batteries are much lighter than their lead-acid counterparts and they claim to provide better starting power. How long will this thing last? I can’t find anything on the website that speaks to that.

And by the way, the lowest-priced battery in their line-up lists for $109.95. It gives the size specs so if that one works in the space you’ve got it might do the job. But all in all I’m not satisfied with the information provided.

As for Antigravity, they say: “THE BEST BATTERY EVER?!!!
That’s a bold statement… but we feel it holds true if you are looking for the best Starter Battery for your Motorcycle, Powersport vehicle, or even your Car. Antigravity Lithium Batteries offer a first-of-its-kind Built-In Jump Starting that will save you from being stranded; they also offer more REAL Amp Hours than competitors, which increases starting performance in cold weather and offers more overall Capacity for your Bike. Additionally, we have Heavy Duty (HD) versions for those needing even more capacity and power.”

OK, so one key thing here is their “built-in jump starting.” That is, even when the battery is theoretically dead, there is a separate compartment or reserve somewhere that holds onto enough juice to get you going so you can get out of the boonies to some place where you can get service. That could be a very handy thing.

Again, I could find nothing specified for my Concours but for the V-Strom they offer two, the ATX-12 RESTART and the ATX-12 HD RESTART, for $224.99 and $259.99, respectively.

Now here’s an interesting thing. To jump start when you’re otherwise dead you have to push a button on the battery. That’s not generally a very easy thing on most bikes so they also offer a remote device that makes it easier–at a price, of course.

They do also speak to battery life, claiming that their battery will last up to twice the life cycle of other lead acid and/or lithium batteries. And the battery comes with four posts, not two, so it will fit in your space and connect properly regardless of whether your set-up is oriented one way or the other.

So OK, maybe I’ll look into one of these Antigravity batteries. If I do you can bet I’ll have a follow-up report down the road.

Biker Quote for Today

You might be a Yuppie biker if you can’t find your oil filter.

Unlike with the Concours when its valve stem went bad, there was no way I could ride my Honda CB750 to the dealer to have the valve stem replaced. I have no idea why that Concours tire still held air but the Honda tire did not. I had already had it towed to my house and was reluctant to have it towed again to the dealer, so the other option would be to remove the wheel and take the wheel to the dealer.

I had never taken a wheel off a bike before. But I looked at it and figured it couldn’t be all that hard, especially if I had someone helping me who knew what they were doing. I called Roy. Roy was very accommodating and came over right away.

The first thing we had to do was put the bike up on its center stand. I knew from when I had a flat on the Concours a few years ago how hard that can be. But that had been a back tire and this was a front tire. It went up easily but then when we tried to jack the bike up high enough to get the tire off it started raising the rear off the ground. The answer was to put a piece of plywood under the center stand, but now it was really hard to get it up. We managed.

Then we needed a block of wood to put between the jack and the crank case. Scraps of wood are something most any guy has laying around but during the Covid lockdown I had done an extensive garage cleaning and had thrown out stuff like stray pieces of wood. I finally came up with a two by four and it was not optimal but it worked. Up on the jack the bike was very unstable so Roy’s job was to hold it steady and give me guidance while I did the work.

It really couldn’t have been much simpler. Remove two bolts and slide the disc brake caliper off, drop the C-clamps at the base of the forks, and disconnect the speedometer. Voila.

I took it to Vickery the next day and a while later they called to say it was ready. I got there and immediately saw they had not put on a 90-degree valve stem, which I had stressed I absolutely had to have. So they got right on it and quickly had it done and I headed home. I should have been clearer on that 90-degree stem but they made it right immediately so I have no complaints.

The next day Roy came over again and we put it all back together. Spread the caliper wide with a couple screw drivers, reassemble the fork ends, reattach the speedo. What I would not have known to do was to compress the shocks a few times to make sure everything set in properly. Roy also warned me not to touch the brakes while it was apart because otherwise they would have needed to have been bled, which would have been an unnecessary pain.

And that was all there was to to it. Great. I love learning how to do new stuff, and this is the kind of thing that may well come in handy in the future.

Biker Quote for Today

My brother recently got into a bikers gang that worships Norse monarchs. They call themselves ‘The Bikings.’

It was recently brought to my attention that the low beam on my Honda CB750 Custom was burned out. So I flipped it to high beam but on the last RMMRC ride the guy in front of me complained that my headlight was annoying to him in his mirror. OK, I’ll fix the headlight.

I have a Clymer shop manual for this bike but the explanation for replacing the light was not exactly crystal clear. In fact, once I successfully got the job done I had to wonder if maybe the light I replaced was of a newer design than that detailed in the book. But, figuring it couldn’t be too hard, I just had at it.

The first part was easy: remove two screws and pull the assembly out of the casing. Unplug the bulb. Now, with the unit separate from the bike I set it on the table and looked it over, with the manual open next to it. The instructions say to remove the ring that holds the bulb in the unit but I also had to remove another, inner ring. So now I had three separate rings and a bunch of screws and nuts and one spring. I was hoping I would remember how to put it all back together.

I also had to remove a rubber covering that the three prongs of the bulb came through. When I did that I noticed there was a wire clip that appeared to be holding a bulb in the center of the unit. I had been expecting to replace the entire assembly but now I wondered if all I needed to do was remove that clip and pull out the bulb, then put in a new bulb. In which case all this disassembly was totally unnecessary. I knew this was a standard automotive headlight so I took it over to an auto parts shop.

At the shop the guy at the counter looked it over, removed the clip, pulled out the old bulb and got me a replacement off the rack. So all that disassembly had been unnecessary. But when I got home and re-read the manual this did not fit what they described. Which is why I wonder if this was a newer design. Regardless, I had to put it all back together now.

Fortunately, the Japanese were well ahead of the U.S. in terms of ergonomic and intuitive design. So even back in 1980, when this bike was built, the design was logical. The ring the whole headlight itself went into would only accommodate the thing in one specific way, and there were two screws obviously needed to hold them together. Next, the second ring would only attach to the first in one specific way, again with a couple obvious screws.

Then there was one odd screw and spring that, had I not been the one to dismantle it, I would have had a really hard time figuring out. But now there was only one place these could go. Of course there was no question where the rubber piece needed to go.

Mounting the unit back into the casing was a bit uncertain because there were three points for screws but only two screw holes. I knew the two on the sides were mandatory and that I had pulled screws out of there. But there was one at the top with nowhere to attach it. But the screw that had been in that slot also did not have a nut. Maybe this, too, was just a factor of the headlight not being the original or the original design. I just ignored that top screw.

The casing for this whole unit has always been in rough shape ever since I bought the bike used, some 30+ years ago. It has never sealed tightly and I had wrapped it with electrical tape to keep out moisture. I retaped it and voila, done.

Now I just hope that if I ever, say in 20 years, need to replace the headlight again, that I remember and do not dismantle the whole thing again. This whole thing could have been a 20 minute job. Maybe a 10 minute job. Hopefully I live and learn.

Biker Quote for Today

Last night, the police stopped by to tell me that my dog was chasing people on a motorcycle. That couldn’t be my dog. He doesn’t ride motorcycles.

We’re home now from this year’s OFMC ride and while I’m eager to tell you all about the trip, if you’re really hard-core your number one question would be, “how did the Kawi run?”

I can’t give a one- or two-word answer to that. So I won’t.

It ran well. It ran a lot better than it did before Joel worked on it. It did not run perfectly and at times it ran alarmingly. Details:

Ever since this bike has been giving me problems it has been hard to get it going from a start. Once in motion it has run OK, other than dying when I’m coasting to a stop. Those problems are gone. There are new ones.

All Kawasakis, as far as I know, are cold-blooded, meaning you need to fire them up and let them run a few moments before you take off. This one is no different but now it responds more readily to a twist of the throttle than it had been doing. The flip side of that is that when I roll off the throttle the engine does not immediately back off as it should. It continues to run hot for a moment and then fades.

Or worse. At times, though fortunately not all the time, the throttle seemed to stick and every time I would pull in the clutch the engine would race. Imagine pulling up to a red light, pulling in the clutch to stop, and having your engine sound like you’re screaming down the highway. I suspect that at its worst that kind of thing could damage the engine. What I would do is let the clutch out just a tiny bit and hold firmly on the brake. That reduced the screaming. It was probably hell on the clutch.

The rest of the bike was great. I knew there was enough rubber on the back tire for the trip but that I would need a new one when I got home. We actually rode about 400 miles more than I anticipated so let’s say I was definitely correct about the tire, in both ways. When I give the bike back to Joel to put in the needed carb parts and get the bike running the way it should I’ll also have him put on a new tire.

But the bike did me well on the trip and that’s the most important thing. And it was a great trip–can’t wait to tell you about it.

Biker Quote for Today

Life is a big road with lots of signs, so when riding through ruts, don’t complicate your mind, wake up and live life.

This carburetor problem with the Concours has been going on too long now. I tried adding Lucas carb cleaner and that helped a lot, but not enough. I finally decided it was time for Joel to do whatever is needed to truly fix it.

It has turned out to be a bigger issue than Joel was expecting.

About the time I was looking to get the bike back from him I got a series of texts instead. This photo is one of two he sent along.

In his text he said, “Some of the issues with the bike. These are the carb slides. Nearly half worn. It’s on all 4 carbs are the same.” (sic)

Me: OK. The bike has a few miles on it. No problem to fix I trust.

Joel: Would have to replace all 4.

Me: Is that doable in the next couple days?

Joel: It’s not something a dealer would stock. Might be able to get used ones from Steele’s salvage.

Me: Would those be good? Do they need to be replaced?

Joel: I’m trying to use them. Still stumbles between 1800 rpm and 2500 rpm. Runs fine other than that.

Me: So what are you recommending? I got a new rear tire on the V-Strom as insurance. I could take that on this trip.

Joel: They need to be replaced sooner or later. Not enough time to order a new set. Let me try a few more times and we will see tomorrow how it runs.

Me: OK. Keep me posted. Thanks.

So “tomorrow” came and went and I’m still waiting to hear from Joel at this moment. I’ll update this post as the situation develops.

UPDATE
OK, Joel says it will be OK, though it will need those slides replaced at some point. I’ll know for myself when I get back from this trip. And I guess I’ll be riding the Kawi.

Biker Quote for Today

I ain’t perfect but I can still ride a motorcycle. For an old man that’s close enough.

When I got a new tire on the V-Strom the guys at the shop told me the chain was pretty stretched and needed to be replaced. That was no surprise–I’ve had this particular chain for a long time–but it got me thinking. How in the heck does such a large mass of metal stretch? I mean, do the many individual pieces that make up a chain actually get longer?

I decided I would do some research.

One of the first things I encountered was a whole other question: Do new motorcycle chains stretch?

Heck, I wasn’t thinking at all about new chains, I was totally focused on older ones needing replacement. But apparently new chains do “stretch.” That is to say, when a chain is assembled, all the pieces are more or less in place but once they are on a bike and experiencing stress they all sort of fall into functional place and that can result in the chain being a little looser. It is recommended that you do an adjustment after the first several rides with a new chain. Then you should be set for quite a while.

But that’s not the same phenomenon as an old, worn chain.

In the case of an old chain, it turns out it really isn’t the individual pieces getting stretched so much as worn. A chain has all these links that are joined with pins. The pins are projecting through round holes in the links and they are what allows the chain to flex. What wears is the pins against the holes, so these initially round holes get rubbed away so that they are no longer completely round, but become elongated.

That enlarging of the holes effectively allows the entirety of the chain to become just a bit longer. Mind you, we’re talking only a fraction of an inch over the entire length of the chain but it is enough to make a difference. If you want a detailed explanation here’s a good video.

Now, I know the V-Strom needs a new chain and sprockets but I figured all along that would have to wait until after I get back from the upcoming OFMC trip. I hope that is not going to be any kind of problem because it’s looking more and more like I may be riding the V-Strom on the trip. I was hoping Joel would have the Concours ready in time but that is starting to look doubtful, although I’m still awaiting the final word from Joel. I’ll go into that issue in my next post.

Biker Quote for Today

My motorcycle had a small oil leak. And thanks to my lack of mechanical skills, it now has a giant oil leak.