Passes & Canyons Blog

Recap: Steve and some buddies are coming from New Zealand in 2009 for some motorcycle touring in Colorado and Utah. This series of posts lays out their proposed routes, with my comments. Your comments are welcome as well.

Day 9

Today is a bit of a contradiction for our riders. It will be one of the shortest days in terms of miles but it will be one of the biggest days in terms of where they’re going. Today’s ride will go over Trail Ridge Road and to the top of Mount Evans, along with some other pretty good stretches. Here’s the map and here’s the enlarged view.

Right off the bat, Steve and the group head out on US 34 up the Big Thompson Canyon. What a nice way to start the day. This beautiful canyon goes up to Estes Park, which, despite the name, is a town, not a park. The park people sometimes get it confused with is Rocky Mountain National Park. We’ll get to that later.

Because this will be the first time for these folks going up the Big Thompson, they’re proably going to want to just ride the whole canyon. If you’ve done it before, however, and are interested in an alternate route, you can take CO 43 between Drake and Estes Park. There are some hairpin turns on this that might make you think you’re in over your head.

At the head of the canyon is Estes Park. This is a very nice town but it has gotten very crowded. Count on slow going through here as you make your way to the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. Oh, and that big old lodge you see on the hillside? That’s the Stanley Hotel, where they filmed “The Shining” with Jack Nicholson and Shelley Duval. Red rum anyone?

US 34 continues through Estes Park and into Rocky Mountain National Park and then winds its way up over Trail Ridge Road, the highest through road in the U.S. This road closes for the winter but should be open by the time Steve and crew get there. Trail Ridge Road is one of the must-do rides in all of Colorado. Plan to take your time. You really won’t have any choice, but you won’t want to rush anyway.

The highway comes down from Trail Ridge Road into the town of Grand Lake. This is a very nice town and well worth a stop. From there, US 34 goes on down to where it hits US 40 just outside of Granby. Here Steve and the others will need to make a decision. He’s considering taking a quick run west on US 40 to Kremmling and then back. He just doesn’t want to miss anything. What there is on that stretch is Hot Sulphur Springs and a nice bit of canyon. Is it worth the extra time and miles? I don’t know. They probably ought to check the time and see how much of the day has already elapsed. This may be a short ride in mileage today but it’s far from done at this point.

Whatever they do, eventually they’ll head south on US 40 to Winter Park and then up and over Berthoud Pass. Berthoud is another very nice pass, and the road is in very good condition thanks to a lot of money spent on upgrades in the last few years. From the pass, US 40 runs down to Empire, where it meets I-70.

A short jaunt east on I-70 brings the group to Idaho Springs, where they will get off the interstate onto CO 103 over Squaw Pass. Squaw Pass is a nice ride on its own but the real draw here is that this is the route to CO 5 that takes you to the top of Mount Evans. If you thought Trail Ridge Road was a slow ride, be prepared to go even slower. I don’t recall for sure but I believe the speed limit on this entire stretch is 10 mph. There is also a toll, by the way. That’s OK. It’s worth it, and you pay less for motorcycles. And no matter what time of year it is, don’t be surprised if you get snowed on a little.

After Mount Evans the route continues on CO 103 toward Bergen Park. A left onto CO 74 a few miles brings you to another left onto Jefferson County Road 65, which meets up with I-70 a little east of Idaho Springs. More importantly, it meets up with US 40 at the same spot and it’s really US 40 that we want. US 40 parallels I-70 on the north as it goes down the west side of Floyd Hill. At the bottom of Floyd Hill both roads intersect US 6, which is our ultimate goal.

US 6 winds down through Clear Creek Canyon, coming out at Golden. One of the first things you’re sure to notice is the Coors Brewery. You may even smell the malt before you see the plant. Golden is tonight’s stopping point, so this day’s ride is done.

Recap: Steve and some buddies are coming from New Zealand in 2009 for some motorcycle touring in Colorado and Utah. This series of posts lays out their proposed routes, with my comments. Your comments are welcome as well.

Day 8

Today is going to be a bit more relaxed for our riding crew, as the distance is less than 300 miles. These guys have been racking up more than 300 miles almost every day. Assuming the start is indeed Eagle, they’ll be heading up to Steamboat Springs, over Rabbit Ears Pass, across North Park, and then up Cameron Pass, down Poudre Canyon and eventually end up for the night in Loveland. Here’s the map; click to see it enlarged.

Leaving from Eagle, Steve and the gang will head east a few miles on I-70 until they get to Wolcott. Here they turn north on CO 131 headed for State Bridge. At State Bridge they will have a decision to make. The original plans called for taking the Trough Road northeast through Radium to Kremmling. What they had not counted on, however, is the fact that this is a gravel road. They’re not fond of gravel on big street bikes, and Steve said he’s also unsure whether their rental contract allows riding on gravel.

While I don’t know about the contract, I do know about the Trough Road. It is very good gravel and a very nice ride. The guys I ride with don’t like gravel either, but it was one of them who showed us this road in the first place and we took it. It was great, no problems at all.

So if they take the Trough Road, our riders will come out at Kremmling, where they will pick up US 40 west for just a few miles to CO 134, which crosses Gore Pass and reunites them with CO 131 at Toponas. The alternative would be just to stay on CO 131 at State Bridge, skipping the Trough Road and Gore Pass. It’s up to you guys, but it’s a short day anyway, so I’d say do it.

Either way, the route now continues up CO 131 to meet US 40 a little south of Steamboat Springs. They’ll ride on into Steamboat, probably have lunch and get gas, and then backtrack a little as they head east on US 40 over Rabbit Ears Pass. This is a good one and will be an enjoyable ride. Descending, they will reach Muddy Gap Pass and the turn-off for CO 14, taking them north into North Park and to Walden. At Walden they stay on CO 14, which turns southeast and passes through State Forest State Park and up over Cameron Pass. There’s some mighty good scenery on the way up.

On the way down the highway passes through Poudre Canyon. Poudre Canyon is one of the prettiest canyons in Colorado so this will be a treat. Be sure to stop a few times and enjoy it. Sleeping Elephant Mountain is particularly interesting.

Moving on down the canyon they will eventually come out on US 287 north of Fort Collins and follow that highway to Loveland and the end of today’s ride. That will mean doing some city riding but Fort Collins is a nice town so it’s not a bad thing to do. However, there is an alternative.

Alternate Route

It just happens that I know an excellent alternate route that will allow the group to totally skip Fort Collins and enjoy some more mountain/canyon riding. As they get down close to the mouth of the canyon, there is a turn-off for Larimer County Road 27, otherwise known as Stove Prairie Road. This is a nicely paved, very windy two-lane that rises up over the ridge separating Poudre Canyon from Buckhorn Canyon. The Buckhorn then carries you down to Masonville. At Masonville you can either go up around Horsetooth Reservoir and drop down into Fort Collins on the south side or take CO 56 down to where it meets US 34 coming out of the Big Thompson Canyon. From there it’s a short ride east to Loveland. Enjoy.

Recap: Steve and some buddies are coming from New Zealand in 2009 for some motorcycle touring in Colorado and Utah. This series of posts lays out their proposed routes, with my comments. Your comments are welcome as well.

Day 7

All right, in cruise ship terminology, today is a repositioning day. Our crew is in Torrey, UT, and needs to get back to Colorado. The destination is not totally certain as yet, our riders just know they want to be in a general area, set up for the next day’s ride. Within that general vicinity I would recommend Eagle, and that is how I’ve set up the map. As always, click to view the map in larger format.

They’ll be leaving Torrey and heading east on UT 24, which turns north at Hanksville and hits I-70 a bit west of Green River. Again, I’ve been on this road but my recollection is not clear so I can’t tell you much about it.

Their plan is to stay on I-70 all the way into Colorado. This is wide open territory and they’ll blast along.

Once they enter Colorado it’s only a short ride to Fruita, where they will turn off for a cruise through Colorado National Monument on Rim Rock Drive. You may recall that Rim Rock Drive was on the agenda for Day 4 of this trip, but Steve tells me he likes my idea of doing it on Day 7 instead, so the switch has been made. Here’s what the National Park Service has to say about the Monument:

Colorado National Monument preserves one of the grand landscapes of the American West. Sheer-walled canyons, towering monoliths, colorful formations, desert bighorn sheep, soaring eagles, and a spectacular road reflect the environment and history of the plateau-and-canyon country.

Coming out of the Monument at the east end, they’ll come into Grand Junction, where they’ll probably want to pick up Business 70 to reconnect with I-70 on the east side of town. Then it’s back on the superslab. This superslab gets interesting, though, pretty soon. Exiting the Grand Valley it twists up into Debeque Canyon, and here you see again how, compared to other states, even the interstate through much of Colorado is darn scenic. Here, it runs alongside the river, through winding canyons, occasionally coming out into wider valleys, but there are always mountains on either side of you.

The road opens out as you get to Rifle. Along this stretch you’ll notice something very interesting. If you’re traveling at night it looks like there are fully lighted Christmas trees dotting the hillsides all over. During the day you can see that these are in fact drilling rigs. And they’re everywhere. High energy prices have driven oil and gas exploration like never before. This particularly matters to all travelers because the intrastructure has not kept pace with the population. Do NOT come to the Rifle area expecting to just find a motel room for the night. There are none available. The drillers are living in them. You’ll probably be lucky if you can even reserve one in advance. Plan to stay either in Grand Junction or in Glenwood Springs.

Glenwood Springs is definitely worth a look if you’re not spending the night there. Get off the highway and cross the river to the heart of town. This is a good place to stop for food and drink.

Then it gets gorgeous. Going east from Glenwood Springs you enter Glenwood Canyon. Excuse the superlatives, but this is probably the most beautiful section of interstate anywhere in this country. It was the very last piece of the original interstate system to be completed because the preservationists fought tooth and nail to keep it out altogether. Their resistance forced the government to preserve the canyon as much as possible and we all are beneficiaries of that. Take your time cruising through, and make a point to stop where it’s permitted.

Once you’re out of the canyon it’s just a short ride to Eagle. This is a good place to end this day’s ride.

Recap: Steve and some buddies are coming from New Zealand in 2009 for some motorcycle touring in Colorado and Utah. This series of posts lays out their proposed routes, with my comments. Your comments are welcome as well.

Day 6

All right. Today the group is doing a day ride and returning to Torrey for a second night. Here’s the map; click to see it enlarged.

Leaving Torrey, the riders head south on UT 12 through Boulder and Escalante. The road turns west and they pass through Bryce Canyon National Park, eventually meeting US 89 a little north of Hatch. They take a right and head north on US 89 as far as Panguitch, where they pick up UT 143 heading southwest.

Just when they reach Cedar Breaks National Monument they pick up UT 148, which carries them through the Monument to UT 14. A left turn onto UT 14 takes them back through Hatch to the intersection with US 12 again, and the rest of the day’s ride is retracing the route that got them here.

I’d like to tell you more about this ride, and I know I’ve been on most of these roads, but it hasn’t been recently. That’s why I pretty much stick to Colorado on this website, it’s what I know really well. If you have information to share about this route please leave a comment. Thanks.

Update

It seems the spammers have latched onto this particular post so I’m going to need to turn comments off on this one temporarily. After they fail to do their dirty work they’ll move on and I can open up comments again. Sorry for any inconvenience.

Recap: Steve and some buddies are coming from New Zealand in 2009 for some motorcycle touring in Colorado and Utah. This series of posts lays out their proposed routes, with my comments. Your comments are welcome as well.

Day 5

Today our riders from down under are leaving Colorado for a couple days riding in Utah. Steve has been to Utah a couple times and knows some good roads so he’s going to be the tour guide here and I’ll just show you his plans.

The route today begins in Cortez and heads northwest into Utah. The destination is Torrey, but after checking in to their motel, the group will offload baggage and continue on a loop ride before returning to Torrey. Here’s the map. Click to see the larger map.

Steve and crew will head out of Cortez on US 491 through Lewis, Cahone, and Dove Creek and cross into Utah just east of Monticello. This is pretty much just high prairie. At Monticello they hit US 191 and head south through Blanding to where they meet UT 95. Here they turn west with a possible stop at Natural Bridges National Monument, and on through the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Continuing in this northwesterly direction, they reach Hanksville and UT 24.

Turning west on UT 24, they cross through Capitol Reef National Park and reach Torrey. Disemcumbered, they then continue west on UT 24 until they reach UT 25 southwest of Fish Lake and the Fishlake National Forest. On this road, they run up past Fish Lake and loop around Johnson Valley Reservoir, then hook up with UT 72 back to Loa. At Loa they return to UT 24 and backtrack to Torrey for the night.

Now, we’ve ridden all over Utah but I’ve never heard of this road, so I asked Steve how he found it and what it’s like. Here’s what he told me:

We did our first trip in 2004 and, since it’s a major expense for us, I did as much research as I could. The ABSOLUTE best thing I ever did was buy a book called Motorcycle Journeys Through The Southwest by Marty Berke. Without the guidance from this book (and with no websites like yours available) we would not have found some of these fantanstic roads.

The “loop” road up around Fish Lake and back down again is one of the BEST rides I have had anywhere (inc NZ). Only lasts about 25(ish) miles but both times we have been there it has been deserted, twisty, great surface and dry – fabulous. Normally, we check into a motel in Torrey and make that an afternoon ride without luggage.

In fact that was one of the best days on last year’s trip (we started from Kayenta in UT) and included 95/24 from Blanding to Torrey, another great section.

So there you have it. Take it from the guy who knows.