Passes & Canyons Blog

It’s going to be a few more days before I can post my riding mileage for 2013 but there’s no question the numbers are going to be lower than the last few years. Having a full-time job will do that to you. But I’m hoping to start pushing those numbers back up in 2014.

For starters, I’m looking to cut my hours back starting early next year, from 40 a week to 32. I’ve been hoping and suggesting to my wife, Judy, that she cut her hours and she has finally said she’s giving it serious consideration. Once she does I’ll definitely do the same. More days away from work will equate to more time on the bike. It’s the law!

And with more days off work I’ll be able to get out and up in the hills more with the V-Strom. I bought that bike for a reason–to ride the almost endless miles of unpaved road in Colorado–and I can hardly even say I’ve scratched the surface. More like run my fingernail across the surface testing to see how much pressure would be needed to actually cause a scratch.

Of course we’ll be doing the annual OFMC trip. That’s always guaranteed. Come on July.

I’m going to be pushing myself to ride to work more often. There are two routes I can take, a southern and a northern route, and I don’t like doing the northern route on a bike because it involves dealing with heavy commuter traffic on I-25. I’ve done that numerous times but that’s just a set-up for lane changers who don’t do a head check, and then pull into the lane I’m in.

No, I prefer the southern route, but the whole of this past late summer and fall that stretch was under major reconstruction, and the one time I did ride that route during that time it took me an extra 45 minutes due to that construction. Well, the construction is finished now and that’s the route I took when I rode to work last Wednesday. My new year’s resolution is to ride that route a whole lot more in 2014.

The key, though, is going to be having that extra time off. Of course my earnings will take a 20 percent dip when I cut my hours 20 percent, but that will give me more time to focus on freelancing again. Of course more freelancing by definition means more riding. I’ve been making a list of rides I want to do and try to sell pieces to Rider or whoever else would be interested. I saw recently that Suzuki has just created its own Suzuki owners magazine and I just happen to have recently purchased a Suzuki, so there may be potential there. Of course I would hope to continue selling to Kawasaki for their publication. Good that I own a Kawasaki.

Rider is the big one, of course. I’ll have another article coming out there in the next issue (I believe). That means it’s past time to be pitching Mark Tuttle on the next piece. And once he accepts the proposal I’ll just have no choice but to go do the ride. Once again, it’s the law.

So I’m definitely looking forward to 2014. This full-time job business is cramping my style.
Biker Quote for Today
Bikes are better than women because you don’t have to convince your motorcycle that you’re a motorcyclist and that you think that motorcycles are equals.

Part of this relates to the simple fact that Alaska is the only U.S. state I’ve never been to. Then, to not only go to Alaska but ride around there on a motorcycle is, in my mind, about the ultimate.

So the boys at Butler Maps have been there and they’ve really done that in a big way. And then they sent me the map so I could drool.

One thing you notice right away looking at the map is that a large portion of the state is left out, essentially the entire western portion of the state. I understand that, though. Working as I do at the National Park Service (when we’re working, which we’re not as of this writing thanks to the government shutdown), I am aware that while there are several national parks and other federal lands over there, they are only accessible by air or water. There would probably be a whole lot more routes on this map if that were not the case.

And I should also add that the map does give you a lot of routes in British Columbia and the Yukon Territory as well–no extra cost! Basically, it shows you some roads to get to Alaska from the Seattle area, as well as some side trips along the way.

Another thing that can be deceptive at first is that unlike so many other Butler maps, there are not a lot of big stretches of yellow-highlighted roads. Those are the best, so you want to see a lot of yellow on your map. But then if you think about it you realize that this is Alaska. It’s huge. And it’s on the same size map as, say, Colorado. So those numerous little yellow squiggles actually encompass hundreds and hundreds of miles of choice motorcycle roads. And connecting the yellow squiggles are a lot of red squiggles, which are the merely great rather than stupendous roads. And oh man, is there a lot of red!

Frankly, I’ve never heard of Haines, a little way south of Skagway, but the biggest single stretch of yellow is the Haines Highway that runs northwest from that town. Now you’ve really got my interest. That’s one of the very best thing about these Butler maps. They tell you where the good stuff is.

On the back side of the map there’s a lot more information. Enlarged maps show sections highlighted on the overall map. If you’re riding a dual-sport or adventure motorcycle to/in Alaska you’ll want to pay particular attention to the Dual Sport Adventure Roads Reference Guides that are included with several sections. Not only are these routes pointed out, there are some tips that are very useful.

For instance, on the Elliot Highway/Steese Highway section it tells you you had better have at least 161 miles worth of gas or you’re going to be in trouble. On the Dalton Highway you need 250 miles worth of fuel.

• Road to Rampart: This road has many stream crossings and marshy bogs. It is more appropriate for 4x4s but doable on a bike if you want a challenge.
• Alascom Road: Another short but stunning out and back ride. Treat yourself to 360 degree views.
• Grogg Creek Road: A ride up Grogg Creek Road is a great lesson in stream crossing.

OK, now it’s time to commence dreaming. And now my dreams can be a lot more specific. I think that makes them more likely to come true, doesn’t it?

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
AIMExpo will debut in Orlando Oct. 16-20

Biker Quote for Today

Get lost to find yourself.

Morgan Sansotta, a die-hard Springsteen fan, blogs on behalf of Jafrum.com. People never believe she wants to leave the Bay Area for her native Idaho.

Contrary to popular belief, it’s not the Potato State — it’s the Gem State. And what a gem it is, particularly on a motorcycle. Idaho is, arguably, the most wild of all lower-48 states and, undisputedly, home to some of the country’s most majestic scenes and varied landscapes. In a single day you can zip from the sun-baked desert to a lush lake shadowed by towering peaks, past volcanic lava beds, through sprawling farmland and end up at a National Park. Unless you’re looking for the ocean or a shopping mall, there is something there for everyone.

As a young adult, I spent many years in the Idaho wilderness and plenty of those years cruising up and down hidden highways. Excellent roads, far-beaten paths and scenic detours are literally everywhere. It’s not hard to find your own slice of remote paradise, every few miles in some areas. The state is the one of the largest, and least populated, in the Union. With so many routes to choose from, I’ll just touch on a couple of my favorites.

Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway

Straight out of the capital city and on up to Lowman, Stanley and the Sawtooth Mountains, this is an extremely popular ride for motorcycle enthusiasts, hotspringers and all manner of outdoor recreators. Highway 21 is on a loop, making this literally, a round trip. While you will have to keep an eye out for rock slides and loose debris, keep both eyes peeled for the long list of wildlife calling this area home. Deer, elk, coyotes, foxes and birds of prey loom at every corner. Campsites are scattered everywhere on this jaunt, but don’t expect to see many roadside pubs or restaurants. If you have some spare time and a penchant for nostalgia, try your hand at panning for gold in the Idaho City area.

The Devil’s Tail

Hell’s Canyon is the deepest gorge in the country, a solid 2000 feet deeper than the Grand Canyon. No matter which direction you come from (Cambridge, ID off US 95 or the Oregon route through Oxbow) prepare for some gorgeous scenery. Be careful when studying maps, trying to craft your own trail – this is an extremely primitive area with loose dirt roads everywhere. Take a time out and let someone else do the driving – take a jet boat up the Snake River or a commercial raft down it. Or both (I’ve done it once and it was awwwesome). This can be a dangerous trail, all cliffs and blind curves, but the view of the Seven Devil’s mountains makes this a check-box on any biker’s list.

The Lolo Pass

Cut across the middle of Idaho on Highway 12 all the way over to Montana (another state chockfull of beautiful byways). They say that Lewis and Clark took this path, more or less, straight through the Clearwater and Lolo National Forests. This road is notorious for its rural curves. Some bikers have even complained that the 60+ miles of switchbacks gets monotonous. Be warned, there’s a 75-mile stretch in the middle with virtually nothing but Evergreen trees and gushing water. No gas, no food, no kidding. Also, be wary of the western half of the journey (towards Lewiston) – truckers and wide loads aren’t looking for you, but that’s nothing new. Idaho law doesn’t require riders to wear helmets. But please do. Other than that, make sure to bring your camera so you can take a picture of your mug next to the famous “Winding Road Next 99 Miles” sign.

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
Only a biker knows . . .: Motorcycle wit and wisdom #28

Biker Quote for Today

We are born without a road map and a choice of many trails.

I’ve been looking through a copy of Great American Motorcycle Tours, by Gary McKechnie, and I am blown away at the amount of effort he has put into this. And oh yeah, he’s also laid out 25 rides that would probably be a lot of fun.

This is actually the fifth edition of this book so I guess he’s had a lot of time to do his research but with all the detail he includes it would be a full-time job just trying to keep that all current. I have a hard enough time just trying to keep my Colorado Motorcycle Dealers and Repair Shops page semi up to date, and this is so much more.

The tours are distributed all over the country. That is by design, Gary says: “In this volume I have tried to be equitable in representing different regions of the country, so you should find at least one tour that’s near you.”

That’s fine, but in my mind it’s the information about the tours that are not near me that are of interest. One of the 25 is titled “Colorado’s San Juan Skyway” and that’s a great ride. I know that because I’ve ridden it and pieces of it many times. But I don’t need a book to tell me about that ride. What I like is the information about all the others all over the country.

Now, truth be told, I’ve done enough touring that I’ve also ridden a bunch of the other rides as well. But the large majority are places I’ve never been on a motorcycle and this book just points out what I’ve been missing. So far.

Which ones look the most interesting? Well, there’s “Oregon’s Best Run,” which runs down the Pacific coast from Cannon Beach to Florence and then goes inland to a town named Sisters. I’ve been all along the Oregon coast, though not on a motorcycle, but I have no idea what the terrain is like heading east there. Apparently it’s a good place to go. I’ll keep that in mind.

Then there’s the “Blues Cruise,” which starts in Memphis and follows the Mississippi River all the way to New Orleans. Again, I can say, “Oh, I’ve lived in Memphis and I’ve been to New Orleans several times,” but I’ve never been to either place on a bike. (I was 10 when we moved away from Memphis.) And the real strength of the book is the detail. Gary doesn’t just tell you the roads to take, he probably offers more than most people want. That’s fine, you don’t have to read it all, but whichever parts you do want to read, they’re there.

He starts each section with a “primer” that gives you some basic history and background information about the town or area. Then he runs through a list of some of the best tourist spots, again with background and history. In the case of Memphis, we’re talking about places like Sun Studio, where Sam Phillips discovered and made history with recording artists such as Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Carl Perkins, and Jerry Lee Lewis. And Graceland, Elvis’ home.

There’s more to Memphis than those places, though, and Gary continues with plenty of spots you’ve never heard of. This is followed with a small section on shopping, then restaurants, then bars, and then motels. This is the stuff that I’m certain must be a lot of work to keep current. Knock yourself out, Gary.

So anyway, the section continues with some highlights of the ride south and then goes into all this detail again about Vicksburg, the next sizable town on the route. And then on to New Orleans and the same treatment for New Orleans.

Now, for me, I don’t care two hoots about the shopping. I’m not going to spend my time reading that. But the rest of it, if I’m there or going there, I’ll probably read it all.

The obvious question–and Gary raises this himself–is, are these the best 25 rides in the U.S.? And as he says, well, some of them may be but the intent is not to point out the best, the intent is to point out some really good ones so if you’re going somewhere you’re not familiar with, you’ll have an idea about where you might want to go when you get there.

That works for me. I’ll be hanging onto Great American Motorcycle Tours and when I’m planning future trips, if I’m going anywhere near any of these rides I’ll be considering how I might incorporate some of these roads in my itinerary. Thanks for the heads-up, Gary.

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
The OFMC and the day of bugs

Biker Quote for Today

Some days you’re the bug. Some days you’re the windshield. But you’re always in the wind!

I’ve known about the Phantom Canyon road for years but had never been on it until Saturday. Chalk up one more first on the V-Strom.

There are two roads leading up from Canon City to the Cripple Creek/Victor area. One is the Shelf Road, which I have been on before, and the other is the Phantom Canyon road.

On the last night out of this year’s OFMC ride we stayed in Canon City. Brett and Randy got going early wanting to get home to Denver as quickly as possible. John was heading back to Montrose, and Dennis, Friggs, Bill, and I weren’t in such a hurry to get home and decided to get there via Cripple Creek. As John headed west, Dennis, Bill, and Friggs headed north, following the pavement. I headed east and then north on the gravel.

The Phantom Canyon road is an old narrow-gauge rail bed so it is narrow and twisty and goes through some gorgeous country. At first it was very smooth, the sort of thing a street bike could handle easily, but up close to Victor it got rougher, particularly where the water runs across the road and eats trenches. It was nothing the V-Strom couldn’t handle with ease but again, a street bike could have done it. In fact, as I went up the canyon I encountered several bikes going down. The first were two dirt bikes, so of course they were fine. Then there was Can-Am Spyder and two trikes. With three wheels they were fine. And then there was a couple on a Harley. I’m sure as long as they took it easy and picked their path along they did just fine, too.

The canyon is very tight with steep walls at first, opening out later into something a bit more spacious. While the road does not show any “improvements” over the basic rail bed there are a few bridges that are clearly much more recent. And there are a couple railroad tunnels that give you an idea just how small those old trains must have been, because they would have been tight for two bigger motorcycles passing in opposite directions. In fact, much of the road is one lane and while a car and a bike could pass, two cars could not have. My biggest concern was not the road surface so much as the thought that a car might come fast around a blind curve and we might have an encounter. But that didn’t happen. A few cars going the other way were moving a bit fast on the more open stretches but on the tight curves it seemed everyone recognized that taking it slow was mandatory.

So this was the third time on this trip that I took the gravel while the other guys stayed on the asphalt. That totally works for me. I’m not keen on riding in such a big group to start with, and the reason I bought this dual-sport bike was to go places I would never go on a bike before. My wishes are now coming true.

Biker Quote for Today

Where a motorcycle takes you is more important than where you take it.

I’m passing this along from Jerry Pokorny.

In an email with the subject line, “Hispanic MC Rider needed for Viedo of Mazatlan Bike Week,” Jerry passed along this bit of info:

Looking for a Hispanic (and fluent Spanish speaking) motorcyclist who is going to the bike week at Mazatlan, Mexico in 2013. A Denver based Hispanic TV station is planning to do a story on a Colorado rider and his/her experience traveling to this event.

Photos/video would be taken at home in Colorado, upon arriving in Mazatlan, during the events there and would be ultimately aired on TV.

No pay or expenses are provided – this is completely voluntary for somebody who is willing to pay their own expenses but looking for that “15 minutes of fame.” For a rider who fits the description this would be this would be the opportunity of a lifetime.

Respond direct to Vanessa at 303-968-4174 with your qualifications and tell her Jerry provided the contact. If you know someone who fits this description please pass this message along.

So there you go. If you’re interested, go for it. If you know someone, pass the word.

And just so you’ll know, bike week in Mazatlan is April 3-7. I read on one web forum where they’re talking about this how some people think Mazatlan is too dangerous. I’ve been there twice and danger was never something that even came up for conversation.

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
Only a biker knows . . .: Motorcycle wit and wisdom, #26

Biker Quote for Today

If you’re not living life on the edge you’re taking up too much space.