Passes & Canyons Blog

Dennis and me at the Blue Mesa Reservoir.

After a day off the bikes we were ready to ride again. Today’s destination: Durango.

Another early start had us riding in the cool of the morning along Blue Mountain Reservoir and on to Montrose. By Montrose it was hot and time to peel off some clothes. Heading south we passed through Colona and thought about stopping and calling John, who lives up in the hills nearby, but didn’t figure we should. John is one of the OFMC founders but he has health issues and is no longer riding. Those same health issues have him and Cheryl happily isolating way out here away from the virus. We didn’t think he would even want to come down and meet us in Colona so we didn’t even suggest it.

As we approached Ouray the sky ahead was ugly up ahead but we figured we’d keep going until we needed to suit up. We headed up Red Mountain Pass and it wasn’t looking bad but finally Dennis decided to pull over. We geared up and before we were ready to roll again the rain was falling. Good timing Dennis. But it never rained hard and we could have done without the gear.

It didn’t amount to much, however, and was totally stopped by the time we reached Silverton. Silverton, in case you are unaware, is a mandatory ice cream stop. And we’re nothing if not law-abiding bikers. Silverton was crowded but most people were wearing masks even out on the street. Clearly we were not the only ones who were determined not to let a microorganism spoil their vacation.

The sky was looking ugly again as we got ready to leave so we put the rain gear back on but once again it could have been left off.

The cruise on down to Durango was uneventful, other than Bill’s failure to notice as Dennis tried repeatedly to get him to pull off so we could shuck our now hot extra layers. Finally he and I just pulled off and figured Bill would notice we weren’t behind him. Rolling again we soon came on Bill, who had taken the opportunity to shed his own gear.

“Was there a problem,” he asked me.

“Dennis wanted to stop and take stuff off but you didn’t notice his signals to you.”

“He should have pulled around me and pulled off.”

“Tell that to him.”

We really do have some signals agreed upon but they don’t work if the person in the lead is not paying attention.

By the time we got to our motel, however, Bill was glad to have gotten that stuff off beforehand. It was hot! What changeable weather we have in Colorado.

Biker Quote for Today

Top 10 signs that a computer is owned by a Harley rider: 06. — Password is “WillieG”

I don’t usually use images this large but it was necessary to show this route.

On the second day of this year’s OFMC trip we had to break a mold or two to get from point A to point B. We were in Alamosa, after originally planning to head from there into New Mexico. But a coronavirus closure in New Mexico forced a change. Our destination was now Cripple Creek.

Unfortunately, the easiest way to Cripple Creek from Alamosa would have had us retracing our ride from the day before, all the way up to Poncha Springs. That’s basically a long, straight shot up the San Luis Valley. We didn’t want to do that. But with the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness in the way, we had to go around. So we took the southern route.

That consisted of a blast to the east on U.S. 160 to Walsenburg, a short jog north to CO 69, and then a ride up through Gardner and Westcliffe to hit U.S. 50 just east of Cotopaxi. From there it was just a little ways east to where Fremont County Road 9 heads north, then county roads 11 and 1 as the back way into Cripple Creek.

We got an early start, in the cool of the morning, and it was a beautiful ride across the valley and up over La Veta Pass. There’s something almost magical about riding through the countryside as the day is dawning, and it was like that this morning.

At Walsenburg we needed gas and were amazed to find every gas station in town packed with vehicles lined up waiting their turn at the pumps. So we joined the queue. Then we found the not very well marked CO 69 right there where we got gas. OK. We had been pretty puzzled.

Heading north on 69 I soon realized that I had been here only once before and that was in about 2000 when Judy and I came this way on a ride with the Concours Owners Group. We hadn’t known going in that this group liked to do fun, 400 to 500 mile day rides. We didn’t go on many COG rides after that.

The terrain running up 69 was very similar to the area between Buena Vista and Salida: a broad valley, hills on both sides, and a bit arid.

We stopped for a break in Westcliffe and what a surprise that was. That little town seemingly in the middle of nowhere was very, very busy, mostly with RVs and campers with Texas plates. Who knew? I thought Lake City was the Colorado capital of Texas.

North from Westcliffe to U.S. 50 was getting into the hills and when we got on 50 we were on fresh, totally smooth pavement that is always nice. Then the back way into Cripple Creek is beautiful and very hilly and twisty. If you’ve never gone that way, either coming or going, you owe it to yourself to do so. Besides, there’s a whole lot less traffic than coming down to Cripple Creek from Divide.

So we were there in Cripple Creek on a Saturday night. You have never seen this town so empty ever since they opened up gambling. But we got a really nice room really cheap.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker if you think that the Harley-Davidson plant should be one of the seven wonders of the world.

The road up Cumberland Pass is rough but no problem at all on a dirt bike.

Judy and I wanted to go camping and we had not been over Cottonwood Pass since they finally paved the whole thing last year. I discussed that in this post.

So we got up on the east side of Cottonwood and found a campsite. The next day we went over the top and down to Taylor Park Reservoir. The day was still early so what do we do now?

Looking at the map we could see that another road ran from the reservoir up to Tin Cup, a so-called ghost town that I thought I would never get to because I thought the only way there was over a really difficult four-wheel-drive or dirt bike pass. That’s Tin Cup Pass. But the drive from the reservoir is easy on a gravel road treated heavily with magnesium chloride. So we went.

There really wasn’t much at Tin Cup but there was a crossroads where you could go straight or else turn left. Left was over Tin Cup Pass, down to St. Elmo on the other side. We were in Judy’s Subaru Forester. We weren’t going over Tin Cup. Straight ahead, however, was Cumberland Pass and the map showed it to be in better condition than Tin Cup Pass. OK, we figured, we’ll go as far as we can and if it gets too rough that will be the time to turn around.

It’s needless to say that the drive was beautiful. Basically what you’re seeing is how this part of the world looked long before the white man ever came on the scene. Except for the road, of course.

We took it slow, and the Subaru was up to it. Along the way, however, numerous dirt bikes and ATVs went blasting past us as we pulled over to let them by. Those are definitely the kind of vehicles you want out here. We were generally going about 7 or 8 miles an hour and they must easily have been doing 20 mph or more. Of course, on the other hand, most of them were eating dust or wearing masks and goggles to keep the dust out. We enjoyed our closed windows and AC.

It was not a bad road. There were a couple times when it got rough enough I started having doubts but those stretches passed and all was fine. We got up on top of the pass and there were a slew of ATVs and dirt bikes. One of the ATVs was having problems, and this is not a place where you want to be calling AAA to. They finally got it running and that guy headed down with another behind him for security.

Up on top there were several roads going off to the surrounding hilltops and there was a group of bikes and ATVs up on one of them. Heading on down the other side the road went into a deep valley that looked like more nice riding. That goes on to Pitkin, over near Gunnison. We didn’t want to push our luck and we really didn’t have time anyway but I have no doubt it would be a great ride.

So, bottom line here, if you’re into dirt biking, and especially if you’re not an expert dirt biker, Cumberland Pass definitely gets my recommendation. Would I do it on my V-Strom? Yeah, I would. I’ve been on rougher roads than this on the V. I wouldn’t touch it on my other two bikes, though.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker if every magazine you subscribe to has the word “Biker” on it somewhere.

As expected, the “improvements” have diminished the fun of Cottonwood Pass. On the other hand, a lot more bikers will now ride this pass.

Ever since I heard last fall that they had finished paving Cottonwood Pass over on the west side I’ve been wanting to get up there and see it. Part of my eagerness, however, was trepidation about the “improvements.”

We’ve all seen how so-called improvements can often diminish the appeal of a road like this. They don’t just come in and lay asphalt over the existing road, with all its twists and turns. Whereas the old road was built to the contours of the land, the “improved” road reshapes the land to the contours of the road. And inevitably they straighten out a lot of the curves.

As you can see in the photo above, the inevitable happened here. Those bare streaks show clearly how the old road used to go, and you can see how the curves have been straightened. Don’t get me wrong, they’ve done a beautiful job on the road. It just can’t help but be a bit disappointing if you know what the road was like before.

And a lot of bikers did ride this road before. I’ve even seen Harleys on the old road, so while it was rough in places it was very doable. But there are plenty of riders who would never have taken it and now they will.

Of course what all this means is that I now need to revamp the Cottonwood Pass page on the website. I already had it on there because it had been paved on the east side for a long time and, as I said, some riders were doing it even then. But now revisions are in order.

So if you’re looking to get between Buena Vista and Gunnison, you really want to consider Cottonwood Pass now. I’m sure it’s shorter than heading south from Buenie to Poncha Springs and over Monarch Pass to Gunnison, and there’s much less traffic. Do be aware, however, that this is a summer only pass and is closed in winter.

Biker Quote for Today

We know you’re a poser if you’ve never seen a sunrise from two wheels.

A short stop in Monument.

How odd is it to say I was glad while riding Wednesday that I was dressed warmly enough? I mean, the daily highs the last week or more have been in the upper 90s and I’ve been riding with my mesh jacket and only a sleeveless t-shirt underneath.

Wednesday was different. I didn’t know how different until I stepped out to get the bike ready. It was chilly–Chilly!–and looked like rain to the west. I opted to wear a sweatshirt under the jacket along with the t-shirt.

That proved to be the perfect combination. It was quite cool riding but very comfortable. After such beastly heat it was a wonderful day to ride.

So this was one of the usual Wednesday RMMRC rides. I met the group over at the pancake house. Several of the regulars were there but not going on the ride. Of those riding, only Dave was familiar to me. One other was a long-time member who I’m not familiar with and the rest were new folks, brought in by the Meetup.org posting. I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again: Meetup is a great way to bring new members to your club. Once the RMMRC switched from its old website to Meetup there has been an explosion of new members.

The ride was nothing special, just the standard loop through Monument. South through Sedalia to Palmer Lake and Monument and then over east to CO 83 and back north to the city. All the socializing was beforehand in the pancake house. But the riding was sweet, so cool, after such heat. And we never got rained on.

Biker Quote for Today

You might be a Yuppie biker if you buy bikes as investments.

There’s nothing more quintessential than an ice cream stop on a motorcycle ride.

Ain’t it grand to be able to do some of the old stuff, like riding out some place for lunch or ice cream. The RMMRC did both yesterday.

There were just five of us who showed at the meeting spot–mostly the hard core regulars, plus a guy, Rick, who I was not familiar with, although everyone else knew him well. The destination was Kiowa, for lunch at Patty Ann’s.

Patty Ann’s is a good place. I first encountered it when I was riding by myself out that way one day and figured I’d stop for lunch. There were a couple folks on motorcycles there so that is always encouraging. I was blown away, though, by how good the food was. I marked this place mentally as one to come back to.

Fast forward just a couple years and I have joined the RMMRC. Surprise: one of the club’s favorite rides in weather when you can’t go into the mountains was Kiowa, to Patty Ann’s.

So we all donned masks and walked in, and we pulled over a second table so we were sitting at least not elbow to elbow with each other. Then about the time we finished the meal Norvin came in. Norvin lives nearby so there was no point in him riding all the way into town just to ride back out.

We headed south to Elbert and past and then Robert led us on some roads I hadn’t been on, on a winding path over to Monument and we stopped again. For ice cream, at a place called the Rock House. Now that was a nice idea. And this was a nice place, with good ice cream they make themselves. Way too many places any more just serve up commercial ice cream, like Dreyer’s, which is good but you end up paying as much for a single scoop as a whole carton costs at the supermarket. I want ice cream that is made right there and that’s what the Rock House serves.

From Monument we continued north on 105 up to Sedalia and then U.S. 285 to the Daniels Park Road. Turning east onto Castle Pines Parkway the group splintered and everyone headed their own directions. Eat to ride, ride to eat is back.

Biker Quote for Today

Owning two bikes is useful because at least one can be raided for parts at any given time.

Up on top of Guanella Pass.

There were nine of us who showed up last week for the first breakfast-then-ride RMMRC outing in quite some time. The decision was made and we headed out for Guanella Pass.

I had missed a previous ride that was supposed to go over Guanella where I learned the next day that the pass was not yet open. These were some of the same folks and they told me that the time before they had gone as far as the barrier and had had to turn back. This time we knew the pass was open.

We crossed town on the newly opened/newly expanded C-470. For years this road was too crowded to bother with, and then for the last four years it has been under construction. Finally it was wide open and a fast run. We’ll see how long that lasts.

The direct way to go would have been out U.S. 285 but we took the nicer, narrow two-lane of the Deer Creek Canyon up to Turkey Creek Road and west to pick up 285 just down from Conifer. Then west on 285 to Grant, and a right turn up Guanella Pass Road (Park County 62 on this side).

It had been quite hot down low but as we climbed it cooled off. I was hoping it wouldn’t be too cold up on top. It was also breezy and I was hoping we would not encounter howling winds up on top. No problem either way; up on top it was calm and just pleasantly cool. Before heading down Robert even removed his jacket and rode in just his shirt. That would have been too chilly for me but I did remove the liner from my jacket, and later was very glad I did.

We stopped up on top and I noticed a much reduced effort at distancing than previous RMMRC rides have entailed. People are relaxing.

Coming up on the Park County side the road was extremely clean and clear. Heading down on the Clear Creek County side there was still a bit of sand on some of the tighter corners near the top. Be alert.

On top the question came up, do we just cruise down to Georgetown and get on I-70 and blast home? I said it was possible to go almost all the way back to Denver on just a very few miles of interstate. You take the lead, they said.

Down we went to Georgetown and through town and on toward Idaho Springs, not on the superslab but on old U.S. 6. At Idaho Springs you have to get on the highway for a few miles but then you can get off at U.S. 6 heading down Clear Creek Canyon, but take a quick right up Floyd Hill on old U.S. 40, which runs alongside I-70 in places and far away from the highway in other places. You do have to get back on I-70 at Evergreen Parkway but you get back off again and at Genesee. Then 40 runs all the way down to Golden.

So approaching the U.S. 6 exit I had six bikes behind me. As I got off I saw several had stayed on the interstate. Guess they just want to get home. But then when I got onto 40 not one bike followed me. Wow, I guess everyone had different plans. Not a problem; I like riding alone. I toodled my way on home, roasting now even without the liner in my jacket, and was glad to walk into the cool house.

Biker Quote for Today

It’s just crazy bein’ here with you, as a bad motorcycle with the devil in the seat, going ninety miles an hour down a dead end street. — Bob Dylan

Yeah, imagine these speed demons keeping up with you on your motorcycle. (Lame? Sure. this seems to be the only bicycle picture I have.)

We were heading down Golden Gate Canyon Sunday when, at some point, we got intertwined with a guy on a bicycle. Dennis was leading, with Janice behind him, followed by Bill, then Jason, then me. The first three passed the bicyclist but the road was twisty and Janice is the least expert rider among us, so she set the pace.

The guy on the bike kept right up with us.

On some of the slower corners it almost looked like he might slip past Bill but didn’t. He was definitely close behind Bill and Jason saw little room to get past him.

Then the road opened up a little and Jason did blast past. And then the guy on the bike was hanging close behind Jason, at times making me wonder if he would pass Jason. I had little doubt that we were in fact slowing him down but again when the road opened up and the motorcycles sped up, rather than affording me a chance to pass the bicycle, that guy sped up and stuck close to Jason’s tail. We were definitely slowing him down.

I figured there was no point–not to mention little opportunity–for me to pass the bicycle so I laid back and gave him plenty of space. He saw this and starting using the full lane rather than sticking to the side of the road. I’m betting he was pleased about that. He would look back periodically to be sure I was still giving him space, and I was, so he enjoyed the use of the full lane all the rest of the way down the canyon.

Welcome to the gang, buddy. Nice riding with you.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker when grabbing a burger takes all day.