Passes & Canyons Blog

Bill shot this to document our deluxe accommodations in Fort Garland.

This 2024 OFMC trip was planned as a Colorado adventure tour so for the most part we stayed in-state. However, on this day when we were running from Ignacio to Fort Garland there were two routes of about the same distance and one of those promised a lot less traffic.

By either route we would need to leave Ignacio on CO 151 headed east, past Chimney Rock National Monument where we stopped the day before, and get on US 160 headed east to Pagosa Springs. From Pagosa we could have just stayed on US 160 all the way in to Fort Garland, going over Wolf Creek Pass along the way, but that’s a very busy highway with a lot of trucks and not very appealing. Besides, we’ve been over Wolf Creek any number of times.

The alternate route was to go south from Pagosa on US 84, down into New Mexico, where we would turn east on US 64, over to Chama. Then from Chama we could take NM/CO 17 northeast over Cumbres and La Manga Passes to Antonito. We’d pick up US 285 at Antonito, up to Alamosa, where we we rejoin US 160 the short distance east to Fort Garland. With roughly the same distances it was really a no-brainer.

The same road looks different going the other direction so it was no hardship leaving Ignacio and cruising back along CO 151 up to US 160. Then the run east to Pagosa was again just beautiful. It really does seem the whole state is greener late in the season this year than it typically is and on a beautiful day you just can’t ask for better. We gassed up in Pagosa and headed south and found northern New Mexico just as green. What a sweet ride.

It was going to be an early lunch but we figured Chama made the most sense for eating so we pulled in there and parked. As nice a little town as Chama is, it really seems to be going downhill. We found our food options very limited–more so than I recall from previous visits–and we decided instead just to try to find some ice cream.

Now, Chama is home to the southern end of the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad and draws a lot of tourists to the train. Where you find hordes of tourists you generally find ice cream parlors. Not obviously the case in Chama. But what is not obvious is nevertheless true in some cases.

What we found was a Subway that was split into two sections, one for sandwiches and the other for ice cream. There was no one manning the ice cream side till we asked and then, while the ice cream was good, it had some ice crystals in it, suggesting that they don’t go through the tubs very quickly. I really think if they put a big, highly visible sign out by the road reading “Ice Cream!” they could double their business.

From Chama we headed north. The OFMC has ridden Cumbres and La Manga Passes a few times but not a lot. The last time we did it going north we ran into a herd of cattle being moved to a new pasture. When the cowboys showed no inclination to help create a path through the herd a car started honking and edging through. We followed suit, with the Harley boys revving their engines loudly to convince the steaks on legs to get out of the way. A memorable ride.

This time there were no herds, and it was smooth sailing, and the thing that struck me was how unfamiliar this route seemed, even though I know I’ve been over it multiple times before. But once again, really pretty.

We got into Antonito and if we thought Chama was a food desert, well Antonito was the Sahara. So we pushed on to Alamosa but at that point we were only a few miles from Fort Garland so we just made that turn and cruised on. We’d just have an early dinner.

There’s not much in Fort Garland but there are a few restaurants and at least one of them is pretty good. The Mountain View Diner has no A/C and the fans were not nearly enough on this hot day but the food was actually quite good. And thus our day came to a close. Home tomorrow.

Biker Quote for Today

Why motorcycles are better than women: Unlike women, motorcycles don’t whine unless something is really wrong.

You can see some of the work that has been done at this new national monument so far.

Leaving Durango on this year’s OFMC trip we had originally planned to ride down to Mesa Verde National Park where we were to spend the night at the Far View Lodge, the very cool old lodge inside the park. It was a treat I was looking forward to but Bill had announced he would not be going there with us and we ended up cutting that night out and moving everything else up.

That left us leaving Durango with the day’s destination of . . . Ignacio. Eighteen miles away. OK, let’s see what we can figure out here.

Because this whole trip was planned as a tourist trip, with us stopping at attractions and doing things that tourists do and that we generally haven’t, we had on our plan for the day leaving Ignacio to make a stop at Chimney Rock National Monument. I suggested that we head east on US 160, then turn back west at CO 151, which runs right by the monument before leading us directly on to Ignacio. Make it about a 100-mile day. The guys thought that sounded good.

The ride out US 160 was very nice as the entire state seems to have stayed green much later in the summer this year than usual. Really, really beautiful. We made the turn and were soon at Chimney Rock.

Chimney Rock National Monument is one of the newest national monuments in the country. It’s new enough that other times we have been past it it has not even been open yet to the public. Now it is but there’s still not a lot to it in terms of infrastructure.

First off we had to go in on a gravel road, and everyone knows how Bill feels about riding on gravel. He wasn’t thrilled but it was only a quarter mile. We got to the visitor center area and it is in such an early phase that the ranger did not have an actual visitor center, he was sitting there under an open tent talking to people and handing out literature. Besides restrooms the only structure was one building that was split with one half being a museum and the other half a gift shop.

It’s a good museum, though, and I found out a whole lot I had not known about the place. I’ve seen the rocks that give the place its name many times passing by and had assumed the monument was all about the rocks. And I thought making it a national monument for the rocks was a bit of a stretch.

In fact, it’s an archaeological site and up on the mesa above there are pueblos that are pretty well preserved. With the gravel road we were not going to ride up to the pueblos, plus it was a pretty hot day and we were in the middle of the heat. The ranger said they do have a shuttle going up for those who don’t want to drive but we passed. I’ll do that some other time when I’m out that way with Judy. Bill seemed positively disinterested and I didn’t know how Dennis felt about it.

So we saw what there was to see and then headed on to Ignacio. Even after our detour it was far too early to check into our rooms at the Sky Ute Casino Resort but they have a very good restaurant where we had lunch and then there was the gambling. This was one place where arriving early was not an inconvenience.

Biker Quote for Today

With the throttle’s roar, I ignite the adventure on the road.

Bill gets some pix on top of Cottonwood Pass.

We headed out of Buena Vista at a reasonable hour headed up over Cottonwood Pass. It wasn’t as cold as the day before but once again, late July or not, I was darn glad to have my electric vest on. Since they finally paved the other side of this pass it has become a very popular route for a lot of people but the crowd wasn’t too thick.

Heading down, though, we had options and I thought I had gotten it all worked out. Once we got past Gunnison we had the issue of a bridge across the Blue Mesa Reservoir being out of service . . . or not. There were two possible detours. One was to get to Almont coming down off Cottonwood Pass and turning north to Crested Butte and taking the unpaved Kebler Pass. They use a lot of magnesium chloride on that road so it’s really hard-packed, like really rough pavement. I’ve been over it and it’s not bad.

The other is to head out of Gunnison and take the road at the east end of the reservoir south toward Lake City and then, before coming to Lake City, take the Lake City Cutoff, which goes down to US 50 on the far side of the bridge. But the cutoff is not paved either.

The third alternative was that I thought I had found information saying that the bridge was actually open just one lane at a time for light traffic, such as motorcycles and passenger cars. We headed for the bridge.

At the turn-off to head for Lake City the road straight ahead had a sign that said it was closed. Not a good sign. We went past it. You could still go in because there were campgrounds and fishing areas you could get to on this side of the bridge. But we kept seeing signs saying the road ahead was closed. Not a good sign at all. We kept going.

Sure enough, we came to where the road really was closed. There was a guy there telling people what their alternatives were and he told us we should hurry back and take the Lake City road and then the cutoff. He said the cutoff opened for westbound traffic at 12:30 p.m. and if we didn’t make it there in time we would have to wait two hours for the next opening. We didn’t have much time so we hustled.

Until we got behind a couple really slow, large vehicles. Dang! Well, we got there in time and didn’t even have to stop, they just waved us on through. And then it was 15 miles of rough gravel. I was on my V-Strom so for me it was no issue. Dennis didn’t like it on his BMW but he just figured it had to be. Bill, on his Harley, absolutely hated it. He said later if he’d known what it was going to be he would have turned around and gone home or something. Anything but that 15 miles of gravel. He was not a happy camper.

I had actually been surprised they had gone for it. When I told them what the guy at the blockade had told me I was not expecting Dennis to just say simply, “Let’s do it.” But he did. He and Bill hate gravel. And Bill just followed us. Bill prefers to just follow. This time he wasn’t so glad he had done so.

The way I looked at it, this was supposed to be a Colorado adventure tour, where we stop for all the tourist attractions we typically just ride right past. Our first day was doing a hot springs. Our second day was zip-lining. Now our third day was getting off the pavement into the backcountry. Kinda.

One way or another we made it to Montrose, our stop for the night.

Biker Quote for today

The joy of riding a motorcycle is out of this world. The thrill of riding in the hills and mountains is an opiate addiction. — Avijeet Das

Bill comes in on a zipline.

Day two on the OFMC trip started out cold. I had my electric vest but had not thought to bring the liner for my mesh jacket because I figured if it rained I’d put on my rain jacket. But a liner would stop the wind, which a mesh jacket does not. We were headed from Hot Sulphur Springs over to Kremmling for breakfast so it was a really cold ride to Kremmling.

After breakfast we headed south and it was warmer but still quite cool. But we got to Silverthorne and it was warmer, then up to Copper Mountain and on over Fremont Pass. The really nice thing so far on this trip is how green everything is. It’s the end of July and everything is still green. Beautiful.

Not so beautiful, on our way down, was how we came around a curve at one point to find a car passing on a double-yellow line. In our lane. Fortunately there was a wide shoulder. Idiot. Do you not understand the concept of a double-yellow line?

We got over the pass and down to Buena Vista and it was too early to get into our motel. That’s the thing with these short riding days we’re doing this year, you get where you’re going early and then what do you do? So we got some lunch and then got into our rooms and waited for time to head back a bit to where we had a reservation to go ziplining.

Our zipline guides were two young guys, one a fairly typical-looking young guy and one who had multi-colored hair and about 20 piercings all over his face. A very capable couple of guys who really seem to enjoy their jobs. And very personable.

We got all geared up and up we went. Six runs. The first few were OK, nothing to write home about, really, but the fifth was a scorcher and a blast. Made the whole thing worthwhile. So it was something we all agreed we were glad we did but that none of us really has any interest in doing again.

Then there was nothing much to do but go back to the motel and go have dinner. We headed out to a pizza place, found it was a fancy restaurant that also served pizza, with a 45-minute wait to be seated. I ordered at the bar for take-out and told Bill and Dennis we didn’t need all three of us to carry a pizza back to the room.

They headed back and then the black clouds started coming in. Was I going to be walking back to the motel with a pizza in a pouring rainstorm? Turned out to only be a light drizzle and it was a good pizza.

And that was it for day two of this year’s OFMC trip.

Biker Quote for Today

Life is short, buy the motorcycle, have a ride, live your dreams.

Our first stop on the trip, just a quick break.

The OFMC left on this year’s trip today and this post will go up tomorrow. For once it’s a real-time report.

It’s just the three of us again this year, Bill, Dennis, and me. Bruce considered coming for part of it but chose not to. Too bad. We really hoped he would come.

Having only a short ride today we were in no hurry. After meeting at a Starbucks near Bill at 10 we were rolling around 11. Golden Gate Canyon was our chosen route.

We always make a gambling stop but since we had such a short ride today we agreed to make an unplanned gambling and lunch stop in Black Hawk. We’re in no hurry. We sometimes will each put $20 in a machine and play it together. We did that this time, quickly losing half of it first on a machine Bill chose and then on one I chose. Time for lunch.

After lunch Dennis chose a machine and we quickly won all our money back plus $2.50 and we figured this was a good time to cash out and get rolling. A nice start for the trip.
We went up through Central City and over the Central City Parkway to I-70, I-70 to the US 40 exit at Empire, and then over Berthoud Pass and down to Winter Park.
Now we were looking for ice cream. This is how we travel. Lots of stop, no hurry.

We found ice cream in Granby and then it was a short hop to Hot Sulphur Springs. Still mid-afternoon. So we got our swimsuits and headed to the hot springs the town is named for. A good soak, relaxation, and now it was time for dinner.

And that was the first day. Very easy-going. Very relaxed. Tomorrow’s going to be a longer day.

Biker Quote for Today

Good time, good friend, good wheel.

We just didn’t see that many bikes over eight days in the area. Meanwhile, do you see that kiosk on the left? That’s a bus stop. On a busy highway. With no pull-off area for the buses. And there were Ubers picking people up and dropping them off along there not even at the bus stop. It was crazy, not to mention incredibly dangerous.

Judy and I just spent a week in southwestern Pennsylvania, the Pittsburgh area generally, and while we were not on a motorcycle you can bet I was taking it all in from the perspective of a motorcyclist.

My initial impression was pretty negative but it evolved over the time we were there. In case you don’t know, it’s really hilly around Pittsburgh, and you might think that would lead to great motorcycle roads. It does. Sorta.

The thing is, in the immediate metro area there are a lot of hills and they’re very steep. Translation: Going anywhere but along the drainages is unfeasible. And in a metro area of 2.3 million that means a lot of traffic on not so many roads. Roads that would be gorgeous to ride except that on both sides of the highway it’s one big strip mall, there are frequent traffic signals, and the roads are choked with traffic.

We got a bit further out of the city, and more importantly, we got off the main highways. Now it was sweet. The hills were not as steep so you could go up, over, and around them, and there was almost no other traffic. Very sweet for riding a bike. But there were two problems.

First off, as we’ve seen in some other parts of the country, it’s all trees. There’s nothing to see but trees. On these small roads, even when you get to the top of a hill you have no view of the surrounding area because all you can see is trees. We rode along a river at one point and could hardly see the river because of the trees. In fact, as we saw later, it was the big highways like the US highways and the interstates that were just cut through the topology where you actually had views from time to time. Trees are nice but after awhile they get very boring.

The other problem was that while these little roads are great motorcycle roads, if you actually want to get somewhere, taking these roads is going to take you a very long time. It’s rare that the speed limit even reaches 45 and with all the winding around you’ll cover at least 150 miles going 100 actual miles. Terrific if you just want to go out for a nice day ride; terrible if you’re traveling and want to stay off the big roads.

Now, don’t get me wrong. We really like the Pittsburgh area. When I told the guys we were going to spend a week in and around Pittsburgh John’s immediate response was “I’m sorry.” John, you don’t know what you’re talking about. There’s a lot to see and do in this area and we had a great trip.

But is southwest Pennsylvania a good place for motorcycling? I really don’t know what to say. If you do, if you’re familiar with riding in this area, by all means, please leave a note and clue me in.

One other thing. We really just didn’t see all that many bikes. In mid-week we were in Altoona and in that little town we saw more bikes than we had all the rest of the week up to that point. Who knows why. But we never really did see all that many motorcycles at all. Who knows. Not me.

Oh, and one more aside. We got home Sunday, unpacked, ate dinner, and were immediately faced with a plumbing emergency. Welcome home.

Biker Quote for Today

When the road ahead seems impossible, start the engine.

A switchback on the road up Pikes Peak.

I hadn’t been on a bike recently because about 10 days ago I had minor surgery that makes it very uncomfortable for me to sit down for too long. But I’m planning on doing a four-day RMMRC ride in a bit less than two weeks so I was feeling a bit uncertain. Figured I’d better go for a ride.

I plan to ride the V-Strom so that was the bike I went out on. I was figuring it has a nice broad, flat seat so maybe that will be OK. Well, I got about two blocks and was already uncomfortable. Not a good sign.

So I wanted to see, would the discomfort get worse, diminish, or what, and how quickly? I checked my watch before I left.

Certainly I did not want to go a long way away and find myself in pain and have a long way to return, so I headed out, went a ways, and made a right turn. Now just go straight until I’m feeling like I ought to do another right turn. One more right turn after that and I would be home.

The good news is that the discomfort did not increase. The not so good news is that it did not diminish either. And hitting bumps was not more uncomfortable as I thought it might be. It was just a stable level of discomfort, but I have the strong suspicion that if I were to do that all day it would get a lot worse and then maybe I wouldn’t even be able to walk the next day.

OK, that answered my question. And I was only out for 35 minutes. Now, I still have 10 days before we leave. Surely I’ll be feeling a lot better by then, right? I mean, heck, I did three weeks straight on the Concours just two months after having heart surgery. This will pass, won’t it?

It better. I’m set up to share motel rooms with Alberto on this ride and I don’t want to leave him holding the bag paying in full for rooms he had expected to split. But if we were leaving tomorrow and I was feeling like I do today there’s no way I’d be going. We all know about monkey butt. Well, this is monkey butt to the max. It’s got to be better in 10 days.

Biker Quote for Today

They say treat yourself right, so I bought myself a motorcycle.

The OFMC approaches Chadron, Nebraska, on a later trip.

Back in the very early days of the OFMC Bill and John and I headed to the northwestern, Yellowstone-Grand Teton, corner of Wyoming, across the Beartooth Pass, through the Bighorn Mountains, and made our way on east to the Black Hills. Leaving the Black Hills we came south into Nebraska and stopped soon after crossing the state line at a rest area.

We got a bit of a surprise then when a fellow we met at the rest area informed us that “Nebraska is a bucket state,” meaning helmets were required. And we had not been wearing ours. Oops.

Of course, this was back in the days when we often did not wear helmets. We were much younger and we were immortal and helmets were just too confining. But we also didn’t want to get tickets so for the rest of our time in the state we rode with helmets.

Well, this is not new news but that all changed on January 1 of this year. Last year a bill was passed unanimously through the state’s unicameral (one house) legislature and was signed that day by the governor. No more helmet requirement, provided you meet certain prerequisites.

First, you have to be 21 and, second, you have to wear eye protection. No problem.

And third, you have to have taken a basic motorcycle safety course. OK, that’s something you want to pay attention to.

First off, there are plenty of people who have been riding for years who have never taken a riding course. I personally know plenty of people who would scoff at the idea of doing that because they figure they know it all already. Well, you don’t. I have taken numerous riding courses and even the Basic Rider Course (BRC) can introduce you to ideas and riding techniques you’ve missed along the way. It’s worth it, and now if you want to ride helmetless in Nebraska it’s required.

Second, having taken that course is probably not going to do you a lot of good if you’re stopped unless you are carrying the card they give you upon completion. Oh, yeah. Maybe the cops aren’t just going to take your word for it. Good thing to take along. Stick it in with your driver’s license.

Now, this is no longer relevant for those of us in the OFMC. We long ago grew cautious enough that we no longer ride without helmets, ever. But back in 1992, when we took that trip, we would only have met two of the three criteria, age and eye protection. But if you want the wind in your hair just remember that you’ve got to take a class. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Biker Quote for Today

Wind therapy has always worked miracles for me. — Eric Trow