Passes & Canyons Blog

You’re going to have to be a serious, serious off-road, adventure bike type of rider if you intend to do the Idaho Backcountry Discovery Route, as laid out on the Butler Maps map of that name. Not because it is so tough, but because it goes a long, long way. Not just from the bottom of Idaho to the top, but also because it takes a side-trip into Montana. I assume that is because that allows you to see some great parts of the state but also because there may not be any roads straight through–unless you want to do 50 miles of pavement. That would kind of defeat the whole BDR concept.

The route starts at Jarbridge, Nevada, and heads north through dry desert prairie, which Idaho has a lot of in the south. Once you get past I-84 you get to the mountains and that’s where the fun begins. Plan on just running north through the hills for, oh, 700 miles. Now, how can that be? What I see tells me Idaho is only 479 miles from north to south. I’m thinking that’s the difference between going in a straight line and following the contours of the land. A lot of traversing up and down will do that for you.

When you reach the Clearwater River, a little outside of Grangeville, the route turns east and runs through the area of the Frank Church Wilderness. That’s about another 100 miles. Then you’re into Montana and have a lot of highway to get north to Lolo. There’s more pavement here than there would have been staying in Idaho so I’m guessing the route was determined based on not wanting to miss some great country. You came to ride, didn’t you?

From Lolo you go up over Lolo Pass on the pavement but on the other side you leave the highway and get back into the dirt. And a lot more mountains until you get to Pierce, where the road turns north again. And then it’s hills and more hills until you finally get near Canada, where the dirt options are limited. And if you do the entire thing, Butler says you’ll be covering a total of 1,253 miles. I said you had to be serious to do this whole thing.

It’s not all riding in the mountains, though. The map points out a lot interesting places to go and sites to visit along the way. There are hot springs, viewpoints, historical sites, waterfalls, and more.

Let’s face it: there probably aren’t many people who are going to do this whole ride end to end. So pick a section and do that. I’ve been up in that country and I can tell you, I’d be glad to take a couple weeks just enjoying the riding. And the sitting. And the camping. Idaho is an incredible place. If you haven’t been there you’re missing something. Go find out what.

Biker Quote for Today

Life without pleasurable pursuits is hardly worth living, and while the best things may be free, some pretty excellent ones cost money and have wheels. — Paul D’Orleans

I’ve had my V-Strom for a couple years now and while I’ve been off the pavement a number of times with it I really want to do so a lot more. Now, in previous years I have gone on some good rides in the dirt with Ron Coleman but we didn’t get out this year.

What we did do, though, was spend a little time in a nearby empty lot working on slow speed maneuvers. Ron has a lot more off-road experience than me and he figured he’d help me with my skills.

It turned out, however, that I actually am more advanced than he expected. He wanted to teach me about trail-braking and he started off by demonstrating. Now you try it, he said. So I did, going in tight circles and figure 8s and while I wasn’t as good as he was he immediately saw that I was no novice.

So, not to make assumptions, but you do know what trail-braking is, don’t you? If not you really ought to learn. It’s just a matter of revving the engine while pressing lightly on the rear brake as you make slow-speed maneuvers. Revving the engine bumps up the gyroscope effect of the engine, creating stability, while using the brake keeps you going slow. Done right you can move at walking pace and just walk around in circles or–more usefully–make a U-turn in a tight area.

But Ron was making his turns tighter than I was and that’s where he was able to teach me something. It was counter-balancing. Making those tight turns he didn’t just rev and trail-brake, he leaned way off the seat to the side away from the turn. The more you can lean the bike the tighter you can turn, but you don’t want to lean the bike so far it falls down. If you lean way off in the other direction your center of gravity remains stable and you don’t go down.

I’m accustomed to leaning in the turns at speed, but this is different. When racers go around curves you’ve seen them leaning way off into the curve, scraping knees and elbows. Same principle in the opposite direction. At speed like that the idea is to shift your weight off so the bike can stay more upright and not low-side on you. At walking speed you lean the bike, not your body, into the curve and shift your body the other direction to counter the weight of the bike.

So I tried it and sure enough, I could make those turns even tighter. I wasn’t really good at it and was a bit unsure, so I definitely need to practice. And I will. And I’ll become a better rider. Thanks Ron.

Biker Quote for Today

Straights are for fast bikes, turns are for fast riders.

I’ve said more than once that in my opinion Utah is the most beautiful state in the US. You can see a lot of it from the pavement but imagine what more you could see if you got off the pavement!

That’s where the Utah Backcountry Discovery Route (BDR) comes in. The folks at Butler Maps, along with the folks at Touratech and others, have been doing a series of these exercises, charting–and then riding to make sure it works–routes across entire states mostly off the pavement. For Utah that route runs north-south but with all the twists and turns to conform with topography it must be double the miles vs. as the crow flies.

At the south end the route starts where US 163 comes into the state a little southwest of Mexican Hat. A bit north of Mexican Hat the route leaves the highway, heading up along something called Valley of the Gods Road. Now, that sounds promising.

The next prominent area I see on the map is a stretch through the Manti-La Sals. These are a cluster of mountains that I’ve looked at and admired for years. But I’ve never gotten into them. All the paved roads go around them.

This would be a good time to mention that this map more than others has warnings that you will want to pay attention to. In more than one place it says “Roads may be impassable when wet.” Boy, is that an understatement. I remember talking to Bill Eakins when they were developing this route and he told me of going out on a sidetrip at one point and getting caught in rain. While only a few miles from camp, it took hours to get back due to the mud that just cakes the tires.

We had a similar experience with cars quite a few years ago. We were headed to the north end of Canyonlands and drove all night to get there, reaching the road to Island in the Sky just before dawn. We drove in over from ground but as the sun came up it started to thaw. The mud got worse and worse till we finally decided we had better turn around. But by then, everything we had already been through had gotten much, much worse. We got out and pushed three cars for miles, taking most of the day, getting ourselves and the cars caked in red mud. Jerry told us years later that every time he washed that car for as long as he owned it there would always be red dirt on the driveway afterward.

The other warnings are where orange highlighted routes branch off from the normal yellow. These are marked, “Alternate Route, Experts Only.” Yeah, we’re separating the men from the boys here.

Further north, in the area west of Duchesne, the route runs up through the Wasatch Range, an area I’m familiar with. But you can bet you’ll be seeing parts of those mountains you’ll never see from the road. And they’re pretty beautiful from the road.

At the north end, the route comes out at Bear Lake, at Garden City. When you get here, even if you aren’t following the Utah BDR, you’ve got to stop and have a raspberry milkshake. It’s the specialty of the town. Good way to cap off your ride.

Biker Quote for Today

On a bike, no one ever asks, “Are we there yet?”

I used a Biker Quote for Today here a while ago that bears repeating: You never see a motorcycle parked in front of a psychiatrist’s office.

Apparently someone decided to combine that idea with the needs of our military veterans who come home psychologically damaged by what they endured. It’s called the Motorcycle Relief Project. (I owe a thank-you to Mark Odette for pointing me to this group.)

What is this group about? Here’s their mission statement.

Motorcycle Relief Project (MRP) is a 501c3 tax-exempt nonprofit organization that provides relief to veterans with PTSD and other injuries by taking them on multi-day motorcycle adventure tours. Our mission is to honor and encourage veterans while providing them with opportunities to decompress, get unstuck, and connect with other veterans.

The group offers what they refer to as “Relief Rides.” Here’s the scoop on those.

Relief Rides are 5-day adventure bike tours in the mountains of Colorado and are specifically designed to provide relief to veterans with PTSD and other invisible injuries. Tours include a combination of on-road and moderate off-road riding. Participants get to ride on some of Colorado’s most scenic two-lane roads as well as some amazing jeep trails and forest roads. A valid motorcycle endorsement that you’ve had for at least a year is mandatory, but no previous off-road experience is required. Rides are controlled with a lead rider in front and a sweep rider in back, and all participants are asked to ride with safety as the main priority.

Riders will cross the Continental Divide several times over the five-day ride. Accommodations will be in mountain lodges, where group members will be able to unwind from the day’s adventures and join in group discussions around the campfire or lodge fireplace. Participants will learn simple techniques for relaxing and dealing with trauma that can help them better manage their internal stress and move toward recovery. A support vehicle will carry participants’ luggage as well as food, tools, etc. Participants in Relief Rides are sponsored by generous donors and corporate sponsors who are concerned about the toll that serving in a combat situation takes on many of the men and women of our armed forces.

Volunteers are a big part of this effort so if you or your riding group want to get involved there are plenty of opportunities.

I could go on but you can read their website as well as I can. This sounds like something a lot of people are going to be interested in.

Biker Quote for Today

Seriously, just get on a bike. Anything that runs. Life is better. — Mark Hoyer

I have my Google Alerts set to pick up articles with the word “motorcycle” and today it brought me to an article I find particularly interesting. Titled “On Motorcycles, the Real Fun Begins When the Pavement Ends,” it’s by a guy who is an experienced street rider who is not so experienced off the pavement. Kind of like me.

And what this guy did sounds like something I probably ought to do. He took his KLR 650 off for a few days in the mountains and just did it. The first day out he wiped out several times and had his confidence badly shaken, but he perservered and by day three, he writes, “By the third morning, the bike feels dialed in. . . . Off-road, headed up a rock-and-mud slope, I push maybe a little too hard and almost lose it a few times. Almost.”

He got it. You just have to do it until you’ve got it. I do understand this. This is exactly the sort of article I’m going to write some day–just not today. Not yet.

I remember when I first started riding seriously. I knew better than to take a passenger at first but eventually I did. It was not comfortable. I was pretty comfortable with the bike by that time but with a passenger it was different. I don’t want to be responsbile for someone else, someone who has trusted me, getting hurt.

It all changed after John and Bill and I went on our very first OFMC trip. By the time I had lived on the bike for a week, with luggage strapped on, putting a passenger on back there was not even a question. I got it.

Later, when I bought the Concours, I was very uncertain about it for a long time. It is just so tall. I was used to being able to plant both feet firmly, flatly on the ground. Not on the Connie. In the beginning I only rode that bike wearing my boots with the highest heels, to give me that extra bit of assistance.

Once again, the only real answer was to ride the thing. It wasn’t a clear-cut moment as it had been with the Honda and passengers, but gradually I got used to the height of the bike. I learned to be comfortable with that height and now I don’t hesitate to ride in sneakers if that’s what I have on. It’s just no big deal. I got it.

So now I’ve got this V-Strom. I’ve done a fair amount of riding off-road, even went over Cinammon Pass a few years ago on a similar V-Strom. And yes, I’ve gone down, and even got tossed head over heels one time. (It’s amazing how a bike can just flip you like a rag doll.) But it hasn’t been enough. I haven’t got it yet.

But I will. I’m just getting started. I swear the day will come when I’ve got this, too. I’m just not there yet.

Biker Quote for Today

It takes less time to do things the hard way than to be too nervous to even start at all.

This is the kind of thing I’m more and more interested in but once again it’s something I will miss.

Seems a bunch of interested parties–Bonnier Motorcycle Group brands, Cycle World, Motorcyclist, and Dirt Rider magazines–put together something last year called the Adventure Rally. The idea, they say, is “The Adventure Rally Series is for passionate adventure riders to explore epic roads and become better riders while making new friends.”

And now this year they are having two, one of which–the Rockies edition–will be operating out of Gunnison July 24-27. Of course, those days conflict with our annual OFMC bike trip, so count me out–darn! Not that I would necessarily do it, though. I’m still new enough to this off-road riding thing that I’m not sure I’d be particularly welcome. I could easily be the guy who better riders have to watch out for rather than getting out and doing the serious riding they want to do. I swear I will get more competent at this. At least right now I can say that I am really comfortable and familiar with riding the V-Strom. I’ve been out on it three times this week alone and I’m loving it.

But maybe your schedule doesn’t conflict and you’re more experienced than I am. This Adventure Series thing could be just your ticket. Here’s a bit more of what they have to say about it:

This year’s Adventure Rally-Rockies Edition will be based at The Inn at Tomichi Village on the edge of town, smack in the middle of Colorado’s best adventure riding. Competitors will be treated to both paved and dirt road options, which include twisty mountain passes, flowing two track and difficult off-road sections. There is limitless potential for exploration in this area for riders of all skill levels.

In addition to the navigational element, which will send each team on their own unique adventure, this year’s Adventure Rally – Rockies Edition will feature special tests hosted at The Inn at Tomichi Village. Judges and instructors will be on hand to challenge competitor’s adventure bike skills and teach new ones.

At the end of the day, this unique event format, combined with the stunning backdrop of The Inn at Tomichi Village and the Colorado Rockies, provides an atmosphere that is designed to be both competitive and casual—putting as much emphasis on the campfire camaraderie as the desire to win the coveted Adventure Cup.

And as for what it costs, there is this:

What do we mean when we say all-inclusive?

Well, for $550 (double occupancy) $650 (single occupancy) you get:

Three nights at the exclusive The Inn at Tomichi Village
Three breakfasts
Three dinners
Two drink tickets per day for post-ride libations
Chance to compete for the Adventure Cup
Custom Adventure Rally road book & keep sake
Custom Adventure Rally Map of Bonuses
Special tests and rider training
Adventure Goodie Bag

So it ain’t cheap, but you get a lot for the ticket price, including food and lodging. You’d have to pay those yourself if you just went out and rode. And Gunnison is a great area. My friend Kevin Smith, who runs Colorado Mountain Moto out of Gunnison, reminded me some years ago that on my own website I say that “If you’re in Gunnison it really doesn’t matter which direction you go, every road is a great motorcycle road.” How true; give that guy a medal. (Oh yeah, that was me.)

So OK, maybe next year for me. Surely by then I’ll feel more competent. And all I have to do is ensure that the OFMC doesn’t schedule its trip at the same time again. That could be the harder thing to do because we set that date in December. So many roads, too little time.

Biker Quote for Today

But I have to lead, because I’m very allergic to dust!

OK, this is going to be pretty brief. I don’t do a lot of passing along videos but Alan sent me this one and it blows me away. Before you read any further, watch this.

Now what the heck? Did that guy have that van totally packed with foam rubber to absorb his impact? Did he die?

I thought at first maybe they just set up the camera so it appeared that he went into the van, but actually went on the other side of it. So I watched it again and no, you can see underneath the van and he did not come down there, and when he flew into it the whole van shook. He really rode that bike right in there. Is he crazy? Is he still alive?

Beyond that, the guy did the thing really well. Would you be able to launch a bike off a hill and float it right into the back of a van? What if you were a foot too high–bye, bye to your head!

I’ve watched this again and again and it still just blows me away. So I figured it was something you might find equally amazing.

OK, a postscript. I just watched it again a few times and the dust that gets kicked up on impact makes me wonder. What caused that dust? Maybe they did the video equivalent of Photoshopping the van in. Maybe it was faked. I wonder.

Biker Quote for Today

“Without motorcycles, people live very boring lives.” – Malcolm Smith

My introduction to RawHyde Adventures was excitement followed by disappointment. Back a few years ago when being the National Motorcycle Examiner was a viable gig I was contacted by someone asking if I’d be interested in participating in a media event at their then only facility out in California. This was to be–I don’t remember–a four or five day session where they would put us up and feed us and give us several days of off-road training. All I would have to do would be get myself there and get home. Of course I said yes instantly.

It didn’t pan out. This was a short-notice event and while I was totally flexible and able to leap in an instant, apparently the folks working for the more traditional magazines and such could not drop everything and go. It got canceled. I was bummed.

Well, just Sunday I discovered that as of June RawHyde has opened a Colorado facility. I can’t tell from their website just where exactly they are; all it says is “Located high in the Rocky Mountains on the Continental Divide Trail, in the heart of the best Adventure Riding in America.” So it’s somewhere up there in the hills.

If you’re looking to get some training for adventure riding–this is not just riding dirt, it’s more ambitious–RawHyde seems to have a pretty good program. The classes or whatever they call them are:

• Intro to Adventure Training Camp
• The Next Step Training Camp
• Rocky Mountain Adventure Ride
• High Rockies Adventure Ride
• The Continental Divide Ride

And they say coming soon, the Triple Nickel Test Ride Program. Not sure what that is.

It looks good. The intro unit is described as, “For experienced street riders wanting to get comfortable in the dirt.” Here’s what they say it will include:

• An introduction to dirt riding techniques and the top mistakes people make
• Body position for effective off-road riding
• Throttle, brake and clutch techniques
• Weight-shift techniques for steering
• Balance techniques
• Turning technique using counterbalancing
• Obstacle avoidance
• How to control front and rear wheel skids
• Hard Acceleration technique on dirt and gravel
• Hill Climbing
• Descending steep hills in a controlled manner
• How to ride in Sand and Gravel
• How to recover from a stall on a steep hill
• How to turn around, fully loaded on a steep hill

That sounds like that would about do it. Where do I sign up? And how much does it cost?

Oh yeah, cost. Get out your wallet, cause it ain’t cheap. If you ride your own bike (they do have rentals) the sign-up is $1,395. Ouch. Some people obviously have more money than I do. Maybe you.

What you get for that money is a two and one-half day program, food and beverages, three nights lodging, and a T-shirt. And not just any food. “All meals prepared by Cordon Bleu trained Chefs.”

So, wow. Wow, I’d really like to do this. Wow, I really don’t have that kind of money. Hey RawHyde, if you want to do a media event to help publicize the fact that you’ve got this new operation running, give me a call. I’ll say yes in a heartbeat once again. I’ll even bring my own bike.

Biker Quote for Today

That hill doesn’t look too hard…..you go first!