Passes & Canyons Blog

Forecast for Denver: high 80s. Weather on Mount Evans: snow.

“There’s road damage at mile marker 8 and it’s snowing on top.”

That’s what the ranger at the gate to CO 5 up Mount Evans told us and she was only a little wrong. There may be a little road damage between mile posts 8 and 9 but it’s at 9 where the road gets truly bad. She was right about the snow, though.

Dan and Alan and I set out this morning intending to go up Mount Evans and then up Pikes Peak. I’m the instigator here; I just want to do it and I also have a publication in mind I’d like to sell an article to. Alan and I had been putting this ride off for a couple weeks because with all the haze in the air from the forest fires west of us I presumed we would get up on the mountains and not be able to see anything. Kind of misses the point.

Two days ago I said let’s do it and when we got up this morning guess what? Major overcast. Oh well, let’s do it anyway. The weather might make the story more interesting.

So I got to Alan’s and found that Dan was joining us, so good deal. Let’s go.

We headed out Hampden/US 285 and then ran up Bear Creek to Evergreen, Evergreen Parkway to CO 103 over Squaw Pass, and just before Echo Lake there is the turn-off for CO 5. Before we got there we had already stopped and I had put on my warmer clothes and rain jacket and turned on my electric vest. It was more water hanging in the air than rain because we were up in the clouds but it was definitely getting wet. And colder. I had not put on my rain pants and that proved to be a mistake.

We took it very slow going up the mountain, especially on the switchbacks, where we seemed in almost every instance to meet cars coming down around the switchback at the exact same time. The clouds were low but we could still see around us. The drops started getting bigger on my visor.

Slowly, slowly, slowly we continued up the mountain as the temperature dropped and I berated myself for not thinking to wear my heated gloves. Then I also berated myself for not putting my rain pants on, because as you probably all know, the water was running down my jacket and off my gas tank and collecting in that convenient little catch basin right at my crotch. And soaking in.

As we neared the top my hands were going numb and we rode into the cloud sitting on top of the mountain. Which is to say it got very foggy. And finally we rounded the last bend and pulled into the parking lot at the top and sure enough, it was snowing.

We didn’t stay at the top for long. Just long enough for me to use the restroom, pull on my rain pants, and shoot a few pictures. We agreed that Pikes Peak didn’t sound like such a good idea, especially since Dan’s GPS unit was showing similar weather on the other mountain.

In just that short time, however, the weather changed significantly. Heading back down the fog was gone from the top of the mountain, you could actually see pretty far, and there, to the south of us, was Pikes Peak. Maybe . . .

But no, we got back down to CO 103 and turned left, to go to Idaho Springs for lunch. And after lunch it was back on home.

It was actually a great day to ride, and it was beautiful going up the mountain despite the cold and wet. Even more beautiful coming back down. But this two peaks in one day thing is going to have to wait. Dang! I’m going to have to go ride my motorcycle again some other day. Life is so hard.

Biker Quote for Today

The most important thing is to have a good relationship with the bike… you have to understand what she wants. I think of a motorcycle as a woman, and I know that sounds silly, but it’s true. — Valentino Rossi

The Concours on Mount Evans in 2011 when I did the piece for Accelerate.

I emailed the OFMC asking if anyone wanted to accompany me on this ride I’m planning but got little response. Only Friggs was interested but even he would only have been in for half. I ride alone a lot but this time I’m thinking I’d enjoy company. Want to go for a ride?

What I’m thinking is what I call the “Tale of Two Mountains” ride. Go up to the top of Mount Evans and then back down and south to Pikes Peak, then up to the top there. Two peaks in one day. I think it sounds like fun.

My thinking also includes trying to sell an article about it to some magazine, though I’m not sure who just yet. I sold an article about just Mount Evans to Kawasaki’s Accelerate magazine three years ago so I don’t think they’ll be interested. And Rider magazine had a piece by someone else just recently about riding up Pikes Peak, so I don’t think there will be interest there either. But I have some other publications in mind that I want to explore.

So here’s the deal. If you’re interested in joining me, send me an email at that address in the upper right corner. Let me know what day(s) of the week work for you and whether that would be this week, next week, whatever. My preference would be to go on a weekday because there will be fewer people but I understand that some people have day jobs. When I see who, if anyone, expresses an interest, I’ll try to get something solid.

And by the way, if anyone has solid information about the Mount Evans road being open, please let me know. This article says the opening of the road has been delayed this year but it was supposed to finally open in late July. Well, it’s mid August now so I assume it’s open but haven’t been able to find anything definitive. Thanks.

Biker Quote for Today

A mother is neither cocky, nor proud, because she knows the school principal may call at any minute to report that her child had just driven a motorcycle through the gymnasium.

Creede To Slumgullion Pass.

Free Eggs blasted out of Ignacio on his way home, after hearing that his lady friend had broken her foot in a car crash. The rest of us left later, at a much easier pace. Into Ignacio proper, then east on CO 151 through Arboles and up to US 160 a little west of Pagosa Springs. Then up over Wolf Creek Pass to South Fork and northwest on CO 149 to Creede. Here we made an obligatory stop for ice cream. An army may travel on its stomach but the OFMC travels on ice cream. At least if Dennis has anything to say about it.

Then up and over Slumgullion and Spring Creek Passes to Lake City and down to Gunnison. The nearly constant rain and overcast had finally abated and was replaced with sun and heat. Personally, I’ll take the rain and cool.

In recent years we have taken to stopping for two nights somewhere along the line, generally playing golf on our day off from riding. This was our Gunnison stop. We stayed at the Water Wheel Inn, which backs immediately onto the Dos Rios golf course so we didn’t even have to do anything except walk on over to the clubhouse. We liked the course and the motel so I suspect they have not seen the last of the OFMC.

On golf day, however, some members needed to head out so Ray and Johnathon took off. The remaining six played golf, and then most of us enjoyed the weekly catfish fry at the clubhouse for dinner. It was very nice to take a break after riding so much.

Saturday morning came and it was time to split up. John headed west to Montrose while Dennis, Randy, and Bread headed to Denver. I had been in touch with my friend Kevin, who I had just been on another long ride with a few weeks ago, and he invited us to breakfast. Bill and I accepted, so we got a more leisurely start.

Soon enough, though, it was time to roll and we headed toward Monarch Pass. Even on Saturday, however, there was road construction in progress so there were delays. Then at Poncha Springs Bill peeled off to stop at his daughter, Jenna’s, place and I rode on alone. By 3 p.m. I was home, uneventfully, and this year’s trip was over. And I have no desire whatsoever to go anywhere else any time soon. Three long trips in two months has satisfied me. For now.

Biker Quote for Today

Murphy’s Motorcycle Laws: 5. The only part you really need will also be the only part on permanent back order.

Riding Trail Ridge Road.

Our third day of riding on this year’s OFMC trip is done and we’ve gone all of about 450 miles. This is an easygoing trip.

Starting out the first day our meet-up point was the Century Casino in Central City. Bill, John, Dennis, and I came together there and got on the Peak-to-Peak Highway headed for Estes Park. The wind had been gusting pretty hard when I arrived and Dennis especially was concerned about rain, so there was some suiting up before we left. Of course the sun came out brightly as soon as we left so by Nederland it was time to stop and peel off this unbearably hot stuff.

An uneventful, but very pretty, ride brought us to Estes Park where we checked in to the Twin Owls Motel. I truly believe that perhaps 30-50 years ago this may have been one of the premier lodging establishments in Estes Park but boy, this old girl is showing her age. It’s still attractive, with a nice patio and a lobby full of extremely large plants, but the place needs repair and many of the old repairs are themselves in need of repair. Kind of Sad. But a nice view.

In Estes we were joined by two more, Free Eggs and Bread. John tried to speak a text message to Friggs and Bret and his phone interpreted their names in a way we found sufficiently comical to saddle them with those names for the rest of the trip.

A little confusion ensued in the morning as John led the way toward Rocky Mountain National Park. When the lead four made a traffic light and two did not, nobody waited around for us to catch up. A conversation had been held discussing the route but certain of us were not privy to that discussion. So I took the lead and Bread and I headed to the Fall River Road and into the park that way. I knew there were two entrances, however, and suspected the others had gone the other way so we cruised on to where the two roads meet before heading up Trail Ridge Road. Sure enough, they were coming the other way and we met them there.

Trail Ridge was good. Not horrible traffic and not overly chilly. And the elk were having a field day. We saw herds in three different spots and they were out there just prancing and showing off their racks like they owned the place. Which they pretty much do. All the crowds of tourists stopping to look and shoot photos were restricted to the road and the paths while the elk had free run of the whole mountain. Very cool.

Down where that road meets US 40 just outside of Granby we stopped for gas and a break and the new Indian Dennis is riding got a lot of attention. The bike that caught my attention, however, was the one ridden by Dave of Missouri, who pulled in on a 2002 Kawasaki Concours. I’m on my 1999 Concours on this trip so we had to talk and exchange notes. Turns out Dave just bought this bike two weeks ago specifically for this trip he and his buddy are on. We compared gear and I was very interested in his Givi top bag while he was very interested in my highway pegs. He was definitely feeling the lack of those.

Heading west on US 40 we ran into light rain at Hot Sulphur Springs but John, in the lead, made the decision I would have made, which was to keep going and ride out the other side of it. We did get wet going up Byers Canyon, and there were placing when you could just see the rain in the air up ahead of us, but we did ride out the other side and by the time we got to Kremmling we were dry again.

A little past Kremmling we turned onto the road over Gore Pass and it soon became very clear we would be getting wet, so we stopped and suited up. And a moderate rain did come down. But hey, if you don’t ride in the rain you don’t ride. We ride. And by the time we reached Toponas it was pretty well over with.

We turned north from Toponas just the short distance to Oak Creek and that was our stopping point for the day. The Oak Creek Motel is very nice and the two restaurants in town both serve good food. After we had walked over for dinner and were back at the motel the rain started and this time it was coming down pretty hard, along with some powerful winds. We were sitting out under the eaves of the motel when a couple on a BMW came into the parking lot, obviously looking for shelter. Sadly for them, though the motel was not full, the proprietors had turned on the No Vacancy sign, presumably they did not want to be bothered late at night by new arrivals. The beemer folks saw the sign and rode a circle and headed back out. We commented on how that poor guy was probably hearing it big time from his lady friend about why he hadn’t wanted to make reservations. We sure were glad not to be in their predicament.

It was raining in the morning when we got up so we had breakfast and got all suited up. It rained lightly for a while but soon the clouds started to lift. We were heading west on US 40 again and stopped before we got to Hayden to unsuit. On to Craig, Maybell, and Dinosaur and then we were into Utah. The first town of any size is Vernal and that was our destination today. Fourth time I’ve been in Vernal in the last two months. We didn’t have lunch so we had an early dinner and now the guys are out in the pool. It’s hot here! And now I’ve got this blog post written I guess I’ll go join them.

Biker Quote for Today

The only time you’ve got too much gas is when you’re on fire.

The OFMC on one of our numerous visits to national parks, this one being the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

For something kind of significant it was awfully ordinary.

I was expecting to ride a bike to work yesterday or today, with that being my final ride to work, but there was no work for me to do so I didn’t go in either day. Now on Thursday and Friday I will go in but I’ll need my car both days. That means when I rode to work last week on Tuesday, that was my last ride to work.

And I don’t mean just for this job; I mean forever. When I leave the office at the National Park Service on Friday I will be officially retired. Done.

Of course, I’ll continue to write, both here and other places on a freelance basis. I’m a writer. That’s what I do, like breathing. Plus, doing freelance work gives me an extra push to get out and do some great rides, and it also makes my expenses when I do those great rides tax deductible. Why in the world would I stop writing?

But I won’t be riding to work any more. So how was my last ride?

First off, it was a little cooler than I anticipated. In the morning I was glad I did wear my sweatshirt but the electric vest might have been welcome. Traffic on Hampden was seriously backed up for no reason I could perceive, until I got past Santa Fe. Then things opened up and I cruised. It was a totally uneventful ride.

Heading home I decided to leave a little early. The sky to the west was threatening in a big way and while I had my rain gear I really preferred not to have to use it if it could be avoided. Plus, I’ve got short-timer’s syndrome and by mid-afternoon I really didn’t want to be there any longer. So I left.

Raindrops were falling as I walked out to the bike but I figured once I started heading east I could outrun it. As I worked my way over to Union, south on Union, east to Kipling, and then south on Kipling to US 285 it was a steady, but light drizzle. Then I got on 285 and blasted and soon left the wetness behind me.

From there it was a simple, again uneventful cruise on home. No pictures, no stories to tell. And no chance for another, different final ride to work as I had expected. Oh well, mundane is fine, I guess. I don’t really have a desire to “live in interesting times.”

Biker Quote for Today

The difference between driving a car and riding a motorcycle is the difference between watching TV and actually living your life.

Looking over the old dam at Castlewood Canyon.

I was down in Castle Rock awhile ago and saw a road heading off to the northeast that I’d never been on and made note that I ought to check it out some day. Well that day came on Thursday last week. I picked that day not to work last week because it was supposed to be gorgeous and it was. Let’s take the V-Strom and find some dirt.

Douglas Country Road 43, which is what this was, also known as North Crowfoot Valley Road, runs diagonally. It’s almost always a good guess that any road that runs diagonally goes directly from one town to another. Like the Longmont Diagonal that runs directly from Boulder to Longmont. That was the case here, too. This road runs directly from Castle Rock to Parker. I had no idea there was a direct route and I had no idea the two towns were so close.

But the road was paved and it wasn’t very interesting. Darn. Now where am I going to go?

OK, I’ve been to Castlewood Canyon State Park several times but generally on the east side where the highway runs over the canyon and then you turn off to go into the park. I knew, however, that there was an unpaved road over on the west side that runs right by the old dam that broke many, many years ago causing a heck of a flood downstream. I’d been there once in a car but never on a bike. My new destination.

So I headed south on CO 83 out of Parker, turned west on CO 86 at Franktown and then quickly took a left onto County Road 51, which was my road.

I hadn’t thought about paying a park fee but there was the ranger shack and the signs telling you you were supposed to pay $7. I stopped to check it out. The shack was unmanned–although someone had left their keys in the lock!–and checked my pockets. I had a couple twenties but wasn’t going to pay a $7 fee with one of those. I also had a five and a bunch of change. I put the five and the change in the envelope and dropped it in the slot, after marking on the envelope, “It’s all I’ve got.”

I suppose I could have just ignored it all and ridden on but while I was there a couple rangers pulled up, coming from the direction I would have been heading . . . without my sticker. So it was probably good that I decided to pay, even if I shortchanged the state a buck and change.

And off I went. And it was good. I’ve had this V-Strom for almost two years now and have hardly had it on much dirt. Last year up in the Black Hills I went out on some dirt one day but it was terrible. It occurred to me afterward that the bike still had the street tire on the rear that it had when I bought it and that tire was by now almost bald. No wonder it had no grip at all on the loose stuff.

So now I have a good, almost new semi-knobby on the rear and this was the first time I’d had a chance to get in the dirt with it. What a difference! What great grip! What stability and confidence!

Oh, and it was a nice road, too. I came out of the park, turned west on South Lake Gulch Road, and wound my way into Castle Rock. Then home. A couple hours altogether. I’m looking to do a whole lot more of that in the very near future.

Biker Quote for Today

Dirt bikes are not for wimps. They are, however, quite suitable for the clinically insane.

On the road with the OFMC.

People are planning their motorcycle trips for this summer right now. I tell potential advertisers on this site that if they are not going to do a full year of advertising they need to do it now, not during the summer. Year after year my lowest traffic month is November and in December it starts picking up again and then climbs and climbs. This is when people are doing their planning, and if you want them to stay in your motel, this is when you should be reaching them.

I frequently am asked to offer my thoughts on a proposed trip route, such as the post I just did a few days ago. Well, here’s another request and my reply. (By the way, it was suggested that I might have routed that last group over Guanella Pass, and that was what I would have done, but I know they are doing work on that road, finally paving it all the way over, and it is going to be a mess this summer. So I chose an alternate route.)

Here’s the request:

Hi Ken,

I have been riding quite a lot in the States, have done some rides in Colorado too. Colorado is among my favorite states when it comes to motorcycle riding, but this time I am having difficulties figuring out what to do. My dilemma is that my wife and I want to spend about 8 days riding, starting May 1st. Basically the itinerary we are looking at is:

Denver – Estes Park – Steamboat Springs – Keystone – Aspen – Durango – Gunnison – Black Canyon. I am confused as what kind of road closures we may expect at that time. I understand it all depends on the snowpack, but still. Is there any suggestion, you could do ? Like: don’t do it, it is way too early in the season, many roads will still be closed and your fingers will get frozen or do you think it could well be done. It is hard to find this kind of information.

I look forward to receiving your opinion.

Thank you,
Ed

In case you’re wondering, Ed is from the Netherlands. So here’s my reply:

Ed–Always happy to try to assist. Here’s what I think is likely.

Denver to Estes Park, no problem. Whether you take the Big Thompson Canyon or the Peak to Peak Highway, it will be clear (unless we get a spring snowstorm, which is always possible).

Estes to Steamboat, depends on your route. The direct route would be over Trail Ridge Road but that will almost certainly not be open at that time. You could, instead, go south from Estes to I-70 and then over Berthoud Pass to Winter Park and on to Steamboat. Or go through the tunnel to Silverthorne and then take the road through Kremmling to Steamboat.

Steamboat to Keystone, should be no problem, whatever route you take.

Keystone to Aspen, doable on I-70 but Independence Pass will not be open yet.

Aspen to Durango, no problem.
Durango to Gunnison, no problem.
Gunnison to the Black Canyon, no problem.
Black Canyon back to Denver, no problem.

It always hinges on the weather, and you could get the most gorgeous weather imaginable. Or you could get a blizzard. I would certainly recommend that you bring heated gear. I love my electric vest and heated gloves. I ride all year round and use those. The middle of the day is fine but as soon as it gets dark it gets cold, especially in the mountains. When it’s snowing there’s just nothing you can do. And there’s no way to know this far in advance what is likely to happen.

Hope that helps.

[end of response]

I enjoy it when people ask me for my thoughts on this. I’ve even had the chance to meet some of them when they’ve gotten out here. It’s just one of the things I enjoy about running this website.

Biker Quote for Today

Not sure if riding is good therapy or an addiction.

The OFMC on a ride.

It’s common for me to receive emails planning Colorado trips, asking for suggestions on riding routes. It’s interesting for me because everyone’s plans are different, everyone has different interests, amounts of time to spend, and starting and ending points. I look at their particulars and see what I can come up with.

Here’s a query I received recently, and my response. I’m always hoping that other folks who read this will say, “Wow, I’ve never done that road. Maybe I will.” Or maybe you’ll leave a comment telling me what you think a much better route would have been. Maybe you’ll turn me on to something I’m not aware of.

Anyway, here’s the exchange.

Hey Ken!
Love your website!!
I don’t know if you have the time to answer individual inquiries but we thought we’d give it a shot!

We’re planning a mid-July 2015 ride to Colorado after our yearly ride to Red Lodge, MT and the Beartooth mountains.

Our plan is to leave Red Lodge and ride to Estes Park (stay in Estes Park) and then ride Rocky Mountain National Park.
After our tour of RMNP we’d like to go down and ride Pikes Peak.

There are a lot of roads leading from Estes Park to Colorado Springs but since this is our first ride to CO – we have absolutely no clue which ones would be the absolute best for a day ride from Estes Park to Pikes Peak and back again the same day.

Unfortunately we’ll only have about 3 days for the Colorado portion of our ride.
Some of the young ones have to get back to something they call work!

If you have any time to help us out – it’d be GREAT!!

Thanks much!!

Greg

My reply:

Greg–

Here’s what I would suggest. It appears to be around 325 miles, maybe a bit more. In July if you get an early start the days are long so it could work. It may be a bit longer than you would like. I’m attaching a map.

Head west out of Estes over Trail Ridge Road, down to Granby, and then take US 40 to Winter Park, over Berthoud Pass, down to I-70 and take I-70 west to Georgetown. Go into Georgetown and take Guanella Pass over to US 285 at Grant and then east on that to Pine Junction, where you go south on 126, to 67, to Woodland Park and US 24. That will take you to the well-marked turn-off to Pikes Peak. Once you come down off the mountain, continue east on US 24 through Manitou and catch I-25 briefly north to Monument. Get off at Monument and take 105 north to Sedalia, where you’ll hit US 85. Continue north. In the Denver suburbs you’ll hit C-470. Take that around Denver to the north and west and where C-470 ends you’ll be on US 6. Take that up Clear Creek Canyon to the Peak to Peak Highway and take the Peak to Peak the rest of the way back to Estes.

Be advised, that’s a lot of riding. A possible different approach would be to take the Peak to Peak out of Estes and at the turn-off past Black Hawk, where the road splits and one way goes to Golden and the other way goes to Idaho Springs, go to Idaho Springs and on to Georgetown and then back on the route. You’ll be backtracking on your way home that evening but you’ll save a good bit of time not going the Trail Ridge/Granby/Berthoud Pass route.

Whatever you do, have a great time!

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
Motorcycle race where you would never expect it

Biker Quote for Today

PMS – The Silent Killer. Parked Motorcycle Syndrome symptoms include pacing back and forth in the garage, irritability, headache, and nausea. If you or a loved one is suffering from any of these symptoms, get out for a ride. Prolonged exposure to a parked motorcycle can drive you completely insane.