Passes & Canyons Blog

From Durango we had a short day in store so we were in no hurry to take off. Dennis and Bill paid a visit to the local Harley dealer while I made a stop at the local Honda shop. I wasn’t riding my Honda–I was on the Kawi–but I had noticed a small pool of oil beneath my bike and spotted a drop of oil hanging off the fairing, ready to fall.

This caused some concern. I had just had the oil changed and a complete tune-up done on the Kawi just before we left. Had Joel not tightened the drain plug sufficiently? Had he overfilled the oil reservoir so it was throwing out the excess? I put the bike up on the center stand and checked the sight glass but couldn’t see anything. This suggested overfill because I’ve see it when the oil is low and you can see the inside of that chamber.

I called Joel, my mechanic, and asked him diplomatically how many drain plugs he had pulled. The Kawi has two and I made the mistake once myself of only pulling one and then when I went to put the new oil in it got overfull on less than the prescribed amount. Joel assured me had pulled two drain plugs. As for filling it, he said he doesn’t measure, he looks at the sight glass and stops when it reaches the right level.

Joel asked how big the drip pool was and told me it was nothing to worry about if it was only a little puddle about three inches across. So just to play it safe I went to the Honda dealer and bought a quart of oil, which I carried with me the rest of the trip and brought home unopened.

So about 11 a.m. or so we headed west on U.S. 160, through Mancos, to Cortez, and then northwest on U.S. 491 into Utah, to Monticello. This was about 105 miles and this was our stop for the day. I had planned it this way because other than perhaps going to Moab there was really nowhere else to go around here. But I figured there must be something to do in or around Monticello because in consulting maps of our previous trips I saw that we had stayed there two nights once, many years ago.

It turned out I had misread my own writing. We didn’t stop there for two nights, it was where we stayed the night of day two of that year’s trip. And I tell you what, Monticello is a really small town. We walked up to one end of town and got ice cream, later we walked to the other end of town for dinner, and that was Monticello. We did a lot of hanging out that day.

The next day we walked next door for breakfast and while we were there the skies opened up and a deluge poured down. It was over by the time we were finished with breakfast but the sky still looked very threatening so we suited up and headed out. Now we were riding north on U.S. 191 through the desert and anyone who lives out in these parts will tell you the desert is at its most beautiful right after a rainfall. That was the case this day and this ride was one of the best of the trip. The smells and the colors are something you have to experience to understand.

After 30 miles on 191 we turned east on Utah 46, which crosses back into Colorado and becomes Colorado 90, to Naturita. If you have never taken this bit of road you need to work it into your route some day. It runs across the south face of the Monte La Sal mountains and then drops precipitously into a lush canyon and finally out into ranching country. This is a hidden gem that I suspect most people have never seen.

We then turned north on CO 141, the Unaweep Highway, which is also very, very scenic. We followed it to Gateway and turned east to meet up with U.S. 50 at Whitewater, a little south of Grand Junction. Then a jog south to Delta and a turn east to Hotchkiss–home for the night.

I’m going to do a little naked promotion here. At Hotchkiss we stayed at the Hotchkiss Inn. Kris and Andy Bartol, the owners, advertise on this website. But that’s not the point. The point is, they have an extremely nice place here. I routed us through Hotchkiss a few years ago and ever since then the guys have raved about how much they liked it. So they were very pleased when I told them we were stopping there again this year. OK, promo over. And so is this post.

Biker Quote for Today

Why motorcycles are better than women: Your motorcycle won’t wake you up at 3 a.m. and ask you if you love it.

After a day off the bikes we were ready to ride again. Today’s destination: Durango.

Another early start had us riding in the cool of the morning along Blue Mountain Reservoir and on to Montrose. By Montrose it was hot and time to peel off some clothes. Heading south we passed through Colona and thought about stopping and calling John, who lives up in the hills nearby, but didn’t figure we should. John is one of the OFMC founders but he has health issues and is no longer riding. Those same health issues have him and Cheryl happily isolating way out here away from the virus. We didn’t think he would even want to come down and meet us in Colona so we didn’t even suggest it.

As we approached Ouray the sky ahead was ugly up ahead but we figured we’d keep going until we needed to suit up. We headed up Red Mountain Pass and it wasn’t looking bad but finally Dennis decided to pull over. We geared up and before we were ready to roll again the rain was falling. Good timing Dennis. But it never rained hard and we could have done without the gear.

It didn’t amount to much, however, and was totally stopped by the time we reached Silverton. Silverton, in case you are unaware, is a mandatory ice cream stop. And we’re nothing if not law-abiding bikers. Silverton was crowded but most people were wearing masks even out on the street. Clearly we were not the only ones who were determined not to let a microorganism spoil their vacation.

The sky was looking ugly again as we got ready to leave so we put the rain gear back on but once again it could have been left off.

The cruise on down to Durango was uneventful, other than Bill’s failure to notice as Dennis tried repeatedly to get him to pull off so we could shuck our now hot extra layers. Finally he and I just pulled off and figured Bill would notice we weren’t behind him. Rolling again we soon came on Bill, who had taken the opportunity to shed his own gear.

“Was there a problem,” he asked me.

“Dennis wanted to stop and take stuff off but you didn’t notice his signals to you.”

“He should have pulled around me and pulled off.”

“Tell that to him.”

We really do have some signals agreed upon but they don’t work if the person in the lead is not paying attention.

By the time we got to our motel, however, Bill was glad to have gotten that stuff off beforehand. It was hot! What changeable weather we have in Colorado.

Biker Quote for Today

Top 10 signs that a computer is owned by a Harley rider: 06. — Password is “WillieG”

After a night in Cripple Creek the OFMC had a couple options on getting to Gunnison, our next stop. I had figured to just backtrack to U.S. 50 and go over Monarch Pass. But I had been in contact with my friend Kevin, in Gunnison, and he texted me saying, “I highly recommend Cottonwood Pass. Best asphalt in the state.”

Judy and I had just been over Cottonwood in the car a week earlier so I wasn’t thinking about it, but I mentioned it to the guys and they liked the idea. Obviously we had never been over Cottonwood on the trip before since it had only just been paved. So Cottonwood it would be.

We headed out of Cripple Creek by the back way but then bent north to Florissant. We went over Wilkerson Pass again, as we had two days earlier, into South Park and down to Buena Vista, again.

Approaching Buenie we could see that the area around the pass was enveloped in deep purple clouds so we figured we’d better suit up. During our stop I texted Kevin, who was planning to ride out and meet us on top. I warned him to wear rain gear. By the time we headed up the pass, however, the weather was moving along and while the road was wet we never did encounter rain. On the other side of the pass, however, Kevin got pounded.

We met up top and spent a good half hour shooting the bull with each other and also Charlie, who was up there on his Indian. Charlie just moved out to Buena Vista from Wisconsin and is just in the stage of exploring all that Colorado has to offer. I pointed him to this website but he said he had already visited and found it very helpful. Those are the words I love to hear.

We headed on down to Taylor Reservoir and stopped to peel off the rain gear because now it was sunny and warm. Riding down through the Taylor River canyon was sweet but we got to Almont and came out of the protection of the canyon and got hit by powerful winds. Those winds kept up on us all the way to Gunnison and for a couple hours more. A windy day in Gunny, I guess.

Now we were in Gunnison for two nights because this was our golf stop. The next day we hit the links but on the driving range I took a practice swing and my right shoulder hurt–a lot. I whacked a couple balls and the pain was intense! I had hurt my should back in February and had had no pain for a couple months so I thought I was OK, but obviously I was not. “I can’t do this,” I told the guys. I took my clubs back and got a refund and drove the cart for Bill while playing ball spotter for him and Dennis.

Next day we’re heading for the Million Dollar Highway.

Biker Quote for Today

Top 10 signs that a computer is owned by a Harley rider: 07. — Number key pad only goes up to two.