Passes & Canyons Blog

Part of this relates to the simple fact that Alaska is the only U.S. state I’ve never been to. Then, to not only go to Alaska but ride around there on a motorcycle is, in my mind, about the ultimate.

So the boys at Butler Maps have been there and they’ve really done that in a big way. And then they sent me the map so I could drool.

One thing you notice right away looking at the map is that a large portion of the state is left out, essentially the entire western portion of the state. I understand that, though. Working as I do at the National Park Service (when we’re working, which we’re not as of this writing thanks to the government shutdown), I am aware that while there are several national parks and other federal lands over there, they are only accessible by air or water. There would probably be a whole lot more routes on this map if that were not the case.

And I should also add that the map does give you a lot of routes in British Columbia and the Yukon Territory as well–no extra cost! Basically, it shows you some roads to get to Alaska from the Seattle area, as well as some side trips along the way.

Another thing that can be deceptive at first is that unlike so many other Butler maps, there are not a lot of big stretches of yellow-highlighted roads. Those are the best, so you want to see a lot of yellow on your map. But then if you think about it you realize that this is Alaska. It’s huge. And it’s on the same size map as, say, Colorado. So those numerous little yellow squiggles actually encompass hundreds and hundreds of miles of choice motorcycle roads. And connecting the yellow squiggles are a lot of red squiggles, which are the merely great rather than stupendous roads. And oh man, is there a lot of red!

Frankly, I’ve never heard of Haines, a little way south of Skagway, but the biggest single stretch of yellow is the Haines Highway that runs northwest from that town. Now you’ve really got my interest. That’s one of the very best thing about these Butler maps. They tell you where the good stuff is.

On the back side of the map there’s a lot more information. Enlarged maps show sections highlighted on the overall map. If you’re riding a dual-sport or adventure motorcycle to/in Alaska you’ll want to pay particular attention to the Dual Sport Adventure Roads Reference Guides that are included with several sections. Not only are these routes pointed out, there are some tips that are very useful.

For instance, on the Elliot Highway/Steese Highway section it tells you you had better have at least 161 miles worth of gas or you’re going to be in trouble. On the Dalton Highway you need 250 miles worth of fuel.

• Road to Rampart: This road has many stream crossings and marshy bogs. It is more appropriate for 4x4s but doable on a bike if you want a challenge.
• Alascom Road: Another short but stunning out and back ride. Treat yourself to 360 degree views.
• Grogg Creek Road: A ride up Grogg Creek Road is a great lesson in stream crossing.

OK, now it’s time to commence dreaming. And now my dreams can be a lot more specific. I think that makes them more likely to come true, doesn’t it?

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
AIMExpo will debut in Orlando Oct. 16-20

Biker Quote for Today

Get lost to find yourself.

All right, we had some snow, a hard frost, and now the weather has warmed back up. This is Indian summer, and yesterday (Sunday) was an absolutely perfect day for a ride in the hills. I figured I’d ride the Honda, partly because it gets the least use of my three bikes but also because those tires are getting old and ought to be replaced. Let’s wear them out!

I headed out to Morrison, where the bikes were thick as flies on something rotten, and cruised on up Bear Creek Road to Evergreen. Evergreen was the same as Morrison, bikes everywhere you looked. I wasn’t the only one who concluded it was a perfect day to ride. A time and temperature clock in Evergreen read 61 degrees and you couldn’t have asked for a nicer day.

I turned north on Evergreen Parkway to the left turn onto Squaw Pass Road. I was wanting to either find some fall color or see how far away we were from having the aspen leaves turn golden. I had seen a little color coming up the canyon but it seemed I needed to go higher. But the higher I went all I saw was aspen tress with their leaves already gone or else just brown. I’ve heard that moisture can affect the change of color so maybe we’re just not going to get a gorgeous fall this year.

Cruising up Squaw Pass Road I still didn’t see much color, but I did see some major work on the road. A lengthy stretch was brand new asphalt, so new it isn’t even striped yet. I had one particular spot in mind where I wanted to stop and shoot a picture but when I got there they were working on the road, despite it being Sunday. In fact, they were laying asphalt at the exact spot I planned to stop at the moment I got there so I kept going and got the shot above a little further down the road.

I didn’t go all the way over and down to Idaho Springs because I didn’t want to get stuck in the Sunday afternoon mess on I-70 coming back to town. Instead, I went on a ways and then turned back. That way I saw the road in both directions and can give you this report in case you’re up there soon.

The road work starts once you enter Clear Creek County. The road surface is smooth and perfect, unstriped as I said, but also with no shoulder in place yet. What that means is that if you wanted to pull off you’d be looking at a sheer drop-off from the asphalt of four to six inches. Not too many people are going to want to try that.

Going west, which puts you in the north lane, the lane is clear and perfect. Heading back east however, in the south lane, there is still some snow and ice on the road. Off the road, in the shadows, there was a good bit of snow. While the road has been cleared, there were just a few small patches where not all the snow was cleared off the pavement. Plus, there are some spots where melting snow flows onto the pavement and then freezes. When I came over around 2 p.m. this was mostly melted and the road was just wet, but earlier or later in the day it could be a different story. And there was still some ice in a couple spots even at that time.

I’m presuming this is indicative of other roads in the high country at this point. If this government shutdown continues and I continue to not be working I plan to check out a few more in the next few days. Hey, it’s a great opportunity to ride and it gives me something to write about here. I will make the point, by the way, that while Congress is planning to pay federal workers for their time off from work, I am not a federal employee, I’m a contractor. For me it’s unpaid time off. But I still get to go out and ride during this perfect weather.

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
AIMExpo will debut in Orlando Oct. 16-20

Biker Quote for Today

Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

I didn’t coin the phrase but I’ve repeated it plenty of times: If you don’t ride in the rain you don’t ride. Recently this topic came up for discussion in an online group I belong to and I figured I’d share some of the more interesting remarks.

The person originating the discussion (David Bayer) is a rider trainer and one point he made was that, “Typically a bike will hold traction much better than most of us can ride it! Even in the rain!! You need to trust your tires. Try using your rear brake when it’s wet to test how much traction you have available. Keep in mind that your mentality can be your worst enemy. You should be relaxed and be as smooth as you can on the throttle and brakes. Trust is a learned behavior so if you acquire some experience with the available traction in the wet then your trust of your tires (and your bike) will improve.”

Here are some of the responses (edited for brevity):

Eric Levy: Unless it’s a crazy deluge, leaving an inch on the roadway, there’s really nothing to be concerned about. However, on the highways, puddles and standing water tend to make autos hydroplane, so I worry a bit about that.

K Cavaliere: I look for the tell tale “sheen” on asphalt, or beading, that would indicate some level of oiliness. In more rural areas, leaves can be slippery.

JT Pedersen: Personally, on any multi-day road trip, I figure if rain is anything <50% it was a good trip:).

Eboton “Reggie” Jackson: Rain or shine I’m on mine. I just throw on my wet gear and keep going!

Johnathan Wilkinson: I grew up in Wales where it rains far more often than the sun shines. Ice, snow and slush are good fun to learn on, too. However, growing up in such a bike-unfriendly climate… Nowadays I’m scared of sunshine, dry roads and grippy tyres!!! Holy sh*t! The bike actually does what I tell it to in the sunshine….. I had always thought riding was supposed to be like riding a horse that needed to be ‘encouraged’ to go, stop, make a left, etc.

Axe DeKruif: personally was never wise enough to pull over in rain in over 20 years of riding, and generally yell unkind comments at those hiding under overpasses when i drive by soaked. i know, i know. i don’t mind straight line riding in the rain. i rode most of a 90 mile stretch at high speeds on the ape in a downpour years ago, no worries. however, i hate having to lean or corner in it. long as i can keep the bike upright, i’m ok.

Rainer Schade: High powered sports bikes with more track focused rubber were a real problem – saw a riding buddy lose it at speed just changing lanes when he crossed the white line.

Dave Larson: When the cats and dogs start coming down, this old man pulls over.
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Yeah, well–from the weather forecast it doesn’t look like rain is going to be a major concern for us here in Colorado in the next few days. We’re supposed to get snow. But then we’ll have Indian summer and it should be some great riding. And seeing as how I’m out of work right now with the federal government shut-down I’m figuring to get in quite a bit of riding time. Could be a lot worse.

Recent from National Motorcycle Examiner
AIMExpo will debut in Orlando Oct. 16-20

Biker Quote for Today

Motorcycle cornering – Survival reactions and proper body positioning