Passes & Canyons Blog

The OFMC has discovered that it is nice spend more than one night in a place. First we started staying two nights and playing golf the non-travel day. Then we found it was nice to spend three nights and play golf one day and do a day ride the other. This is what we continue to do.

So we got to Espanola and settled in for three nights. Our first full day there was the golf day. You might not guess it but they have an extremely nice municipal course there. We had a good day.

The next day was time for a day ride. I had a thought in mind but wondered about a connection I only hoped might exist.

The idea was first to go north on the High Road to Taos, which we had planned to ride but took a wrong turn two days earlier. No getting on the wrong road this time. So up the High Road to the south end of Taos, then east on US 64 over to Angel Fire, then south on NM434 all the way down to the little town of Mora. My question: might there be a road connecting Mora back to Espanola so that we would not need to go all the way down to Las Vegas and then take I-25 around to Santa Fe before completing the loop back to Espanola?

Yes there is. Nice!

The road you hit at Mora is NM518 and if you go west out of Mora it brings you back to the High Road at Penasco. That leaves you backtracking on the High Road from Penasco back to Espanola but that’s fine. So our route was set.

We headed up the High Road (NM76) and just before we got to Truchas I spotted something I had been thinking about: a cemetery with a motorcycle-themed grave marker. I had seen this marker as we rode past years ago and really wanted to stop and shoot some pictures but I was with the group and it’s just not easy to decide to halt the entire group so you can shoot a picture. So with deep regrets I rode on past. This time I was determined to stop, and we did. That’s that picture up above.

We continued on our route, to Taos, then over to Angel Fire, and I pulled into a tourist information center so we could have a pit stop. When we were leaving I needed to either roll back or I could pull forward and do a U-turn. I’m a pretty competent rider so I figured I’d just do the U-turn. Bad choice.

It was a tight turn and I dropped the bike. Dang, I hate when I do that!! I suffered some inconsequential bruises, and two weeks later I still have a knot below my right knee where I believe my leg hit the end of the handle bar on my way over, but basically I was OK. Can’t say the same for the bike. The left mirror was busted so it just hung limply to the side, as you can see below.

So we headed on south out of Angel Fire. The last time we had ridden down NM434 it was this tiny little road, not even two full lanes wide in many spots. Back then they were doing some “improvements” but it was a really sweet little road that I wished could just stay as is. Nope. Now they are engaged in fully expanding it into a full-blown two-lane highway, complete with shoulders. This means carving big chunks out of the hillside and things like that. So sad.

It also means we got stopped for nearly half an hour by construction. During that time we were joined by a young guy on an Aprilia who was on a lengthy tour alone. To say his bike was in rough shape would be putting it mildly. But he was out there loving it and we all wished him a great trip. Then another guy on a Gold Wing came up. When they let us go the two of them took off ahead of us and within seconds they were out of sight and we never saw them again.

We got to Mora and it was time for lunch. We sat on the patio at this place and also on the patio were two people who obviously belonged to the two bikes we had seen in the parking lot. They were an older couple and the really odd thing was that the guy ate his entire meal without taking off his helmet. And this was not a half helmet. Bizarre.

We watched them as they left and the guy loaded their two little dogs into a carrier that he strapped onto his passenger seat and the woman got on her bike, putting on a helmet but otherwise in shorts, T-shirt, and sneakers. Away they went. To each his own.

We headed west on NM518 and were just getting out of town when we saw a blockade up ahead. The New Mexico State Patrol was conducting a stop-all drunken driver check. The lady trooper asked me nicely if I’d been drinking, I said no, and she smiled and said “Have a nice day.” I had been stopped at a similar blockade in New Mexico years ago and it had been really creepy with a bunch of dudes skulking all around my car, peering in the windows to see if they could see anything to harass me about. Maybe this kind of stop is just something New Mexico does.

On we went and this was a very nice road, except that it clearly had been the scene of a forest fire not long ago. But it was a really nice road and a road we had never been on before so that made it really cool.

Just a little ways before we got back to Penasco to rejoin the High Road and started backtracking I kicked my right leg up to rest it on my highway peg . . . and the peg fell away out of sight. What the heck?

I couldn’t stop right there but as soon as I found a space where three bikes could pull off I did. Miraculously, my highway peg was hanging suspended from the fairing and it hadn’t even lost the bolt or washer. Apparently the last time my mechanic had had to remove it to work on the bike he had not tightened it securely. Or maybe he has never removed it and it just worked loose after all these years. Either way, it truly was a miracle that I didn’t lose it or the bolt and washer. But putting it back on would be a hassle because that would entail removing the body work. Not something to be done on the spot.

We made it back to Espanola much later than originally expected and by that time the fourth and final member of our party had arrived. Bruce is someone I have met through the RMMRC and I had invited him along on this trip. The three of us had agreed long ago that four would be a better number than three so we were glad to have Bruce join us. Welcome to the group.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker when you feel like every car is out to get you.

On our second day of the OFMC trip we were looking at a short ride, just 96 miles south on US 285 from Alamosa to Espanola, New Mexico. That was just not going to happen.

So we headed east on US 160 to Fort Garland and then turned south on CO159. Besides being more scenic, it was a much less busy road and it led us down to even more good riding. I had suggested we go down to Questa, in New Mexico, on what became NM522 when we crossed the state line, and then go east around the mountain to Red River, Eagle Nest, Angel Fire, and west to pick up the High Road to Taos, which goes to Espanola. That was a bit more riding than Bill wanted so we nixed that but did continue on 522 to Taos, where we intended to catch the High Road.

But things got interesting before that happened. Looking at the map I saw that if we took a right turn onto US 64 where it intersects 522, and then very quickly take a left onto what I now see listed as Blueberry Hill Road, we could bypass Taos entirely. We’ve been to Taos plenty of times and we know the traffic it entails. Plus, there were signs warning of road construction in Taos, so all the more reason to bypass.

And Blueberry Hill Road was really nice. It follows the ridge line through a very pretty area and at the southern end ties into NM240, which continues on down to NM68. Sweet road. Terrific to completely avoid Taos.

At NM68 I was set to go left when Dennis pulled up next to me and told me his GPS said go right to get to Espanola. Because of some unexpected turns in the road I was not totally sure of our location so I figured to trust his GPS. It turned out this road did indeed go to Espanola but it was not the High Road.

What it was was a road we had never ridden before. So with Blueberry Hill Road this was two new roads for us in one day. And it was a nice road, too. It runs through a gorge on the Rio Grande much of the way and then the terrain opens out into a valley with a lot of wineries. And then it does get down to Espanola and is considerably shorter than the High Road.

We still got into Espanola way too early and had to wait about three hours before we could even check into our hotel. Imagine if we’d gone straight down US 285! But now we were set for the next three days because this was our customary gambling and golf stop that we always make on this trip.

Biker Quote for Today

You might be a Yuppie biker if your leathers still have creases.

Getting you from one place to another is only a small part of what makes for a great motorcycle road. More importantly, a great motorcycle road twists and winds, climbs and descends, allows you to take your time, and offers a fresh experience that affords numerous interesting stops.

Check, check, and check. Add the High Road to Taos to your list of top two-wheel routes.

The “Low Road” to Taos is the main one, and it’s a busy highway that mostly follows the Rio Grande Valley. The High Road is small and quiet and offers a taste of Southwestern culture that can make you feel like you’re gone to another country. Unfortunately, until recently that culture also included the Third World mentality that “the world is my trash heap,” but an aggressive anti-litter campaign appears to have turned that attitude around.

Starting out from the general vicinity of Espanola, northwest of Santa Fe a few miles, the High Road at first passes through small communities that afford a glimpse of life in this region before the advent of electricity and technology. Homes are hidden deep in the shade of towering trees that keep the otherwise oppressive heat and vicious sunshine at bay, offering a coolness that is delicious in its relief.

The road then rises to the brown, arid hilltops, riding a ridge line that passes above the lush green farming valleys of towns with names such as Rio Chiquito and Cordova. The architecture gives a sense of place that is lost in the ticky-tacky sameness of modern housing developments.

Approaching the small community of Truchas a cemetery alongside the road displays a colorful aspect more common south of the border than north, including one grave site flanked on both sides by sheet metal cutouts of the V-twin hog the deceased once presumably loved.

On through Ojo Sarco, Las Trampas, and Chamisal, the road – NM 76 – winds until it ends at NM 75 near Rio Lucio. East through Penasco and beyond you follow a river canyon, and then at Rock Wall a left turn of about 160 degrees puts you on NM 518, where you start to climb and then climb some more.

Now the road earns its title of the High Road to Taos. Coursing high through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the vegetation is dense pine and spruce forest and the vistas, when they present themselves, are of neighboring mountains and the deep valleys in between. Then you descend into one of those valleys and soon encounter the congestion and fast-food franchises that make the outskirts of Taos indistinguishable from any other American city.

Biker Quote for Today

I want to take you on a motorcycle ride through the sugar cane and the countryside — Michael Franti