Passes & Canyons Blog

Red Mountain Pass was going to close for construction at 8:30 a.m. so we agreed to play it safe and leave Ouray at 7 a.m. You could call that an excess of caution, and Ralf did, saying he planned to leave at 8 and maybe we would still be in Silverton having breakfast when he got there. We were and he did.

This was day three of the Colorado Cruise, my first multi-day ride with the Rocky Mountain Motorcycle Riders Club (RMMRC).

It was not as cold in Ouray at 7 a.m. as we all expected but we were already at 7,800 feet and the top of Red Mountain Pass is 11,000 feet. I blessed myself for having brought my electric vest and cursed myself for not digging out the liner for my mesh jacket. It was somewhere at home.

We started up the pass and it got cold in a hurry. The sun was up somewhere but with the mountains we sure couldn’t see–or feel–it. By the time we got to the top my fingers were ice cubes and the rest of me was not far behind. I really couldn’t feel the warmth from my vest except I know that without it I would have been totally frozen. I anticipated warmer air as we descended.

But Silverton is still 9,300 feet up there so you can be excused for not noticing much more warmth. Finally we were coming to a bend where I could see sunshine but as we came around it we suddenly had the blazing sun, barely above the horizon, smack in our faces, almost totally blinding us. And then we were back in the shadows.

We got to Silverton and stopped first for gas. My tank bag on the V-Strom covers the gas cap and there are two clasps that need to be undone to access it. For a couple minutes my fingers were too numb to open the clasps. And then it was only with difficulty that I inserted the key to open the gas cap. Give me some coffee and some breakfast!

Not so easily done. Every restaurant in this country seems, at this time, to be short of staff. Posted hours mean nothing; they open when they open. We could find only one open restaurant in Silverton and they had a 90-minute wait. We settled for coffee and pastries at an open coffee shop. And Ralf showed up.

Back on the bikes, we headed toward Durango but Bob knew a better route. About 20 miles south of Silverton we turned off onto County Road 250, took a couple of sharp turns, and stopped at a bridge over a good-sized stream. This was Baker’s Bridge and Bob explained that it was the place where, in the movie “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid,” Butch and Sundance landed after they jumped off a cliff into the river below. Now, it wasn’t where they jumped from, but this is a movie and they filmed the jumping somewhere and the landing somewhere else. This was the somewhere else.

We then stayed on 250 as it ran along the hillside of the valley leading down to Durango. Coming into Durango we turned onto North College Drive, still on the hill skirting the town, and finally coming out on CO 3 at the south end of town before getting onto US 160 eastbound. We totally missed all the mess and congestion that is Durango. What a great route! And it was very pretty, too.

So we headed east on US 160 over to Pagosa Springs. We stopped for lunch in Pagosa but again found it hard to find a nice restaurant that was open and didn’t have more than an hour to wait. Finally we just split up with some going to a nicer place and others going to fast food joint. And Charley and Karen went off to their daughter’s house.

We had agreed to meet up again on top of Wolf Creek Pass but that didn’t happen. Nobody was interested in waiting who knows how long at the top of the pass when they’d rather be riding. So our group rode on down to South Fork where we stopped for gas. Then we turned north on CO 149 up over Slumgullion and Spring Creek Passes. Starting down Slumgullion we caught up with some riders and — surprise! — they were part of our group. They had passed us while we were getting gas.

On through Lake City and down to the Blue Mesa Reservoir and to Gunnison. That was a long day’s ride. Good to reach the end.

Biker Quote for Today

You might be a Yuppie biker if you’re a HOG member and think you’re an outlaw.

Dave and I loaded up and rode across the street to join the rest of the RMMRC group on our four-day ride the second morning. While I parked, Dave disappeared. After a few minutes it occurred to me and I asked Susan if they had all already gotten gas. She said yes and I realized that was probably where Dave had gone. I figured I’d better do so, too.

I filled up and used the facilities one last time and as I came out I saw a group of bikers heading down Horizon Drive toward the westbound I-70 ramp and then realized it was my group. They were leaving without me. I guess I should have said something to someone other than Susan about getting gas.

I hopped on and blasted away to catch up but this is a fast group of riders so that didn’t happen at all quickly. Meanwhile I considered the situation. I recalled some discussion of riding Colorado National Monument. Our ultimate destination this day was Ouray so it would make the most sense if you’re going to ride the monument to start on the Fruita end. But they might not; could I get to the exit to the other end before I lose sight of anyone? Regardless, I figured if I didn’t find them I would ride the ride I considered nicest, which would be to go to Fruita, ride the monument, and then meet them all at lunch down in Gateway.

Just as I got to the exit to the non-Fruita entrance to the monument I caught a glimpse of riders ahead on the interstate so I figured that was them and I cranked the throttle even harder. Just as they were exiting at Fruita I pulled up alongside Charley, who was riding sweep with his wife Karen on behind. Charley waved me on ahead of him and I was back with the group.

We rode the monument, stopping a couple times so Ralf, a hydro-geologist, could give us a little education on plate tectonics and uplift and erosion. Ralf is very knowledgeable so these were interesting presentations.

Leaving the monument we headed down US 50 to Whitewater, where we turned west on CO 141 toward Gateway and the Unaweep Tabeguache Scenic Byway. The Paradox Grille in Gateway is excellent, but also on our agenda was the Gateway Auto Museum. I’ve been to Gateway numerous times, eaten at the Paradox several times, but I had never been in the museum. Let me tell you it’s worth it. They have some amazing cars in there.

The road to Gateway is very nice but the road south from there to Naturita is spectacular. If you are familiar with the canyon country of Utah, this is a small area where the canyons crossed the state line and made their way into Colorado. Beautiful country and a beautiful ride.

We stayed on CO 145 until Placerville and then took CO 62 on to Ridgway. From there it’s just a few miles south on US 550 to Ouray. Coming into town we saw signs warning that 550 over Red Mountain Pass would be closed for construction beginning at 8:30 a.m. the next day. Oh, oh. We’re going to have to get an early start. And it’s going to be cold.

Biker Quote for Today

We know you’re a poser if you set at least one mirror, if not both, to reflect yourself.

Who knew it was 400 miles to Grand Junction from Denver? Or that it would take more than nine hours? We all know shortcuts; here we’re talking about longcuts.

I took off a week and a half ago with eight others from the Rocky Mountain Motorcycle Riders Club (RMMRC) on a four-day Colorado Cruise ride and that was our first day. This is not a group that just rides out to the local bar; this is a group for people who really want to ride.

Nine of us on eight bikes left Morrison at 9 a.m., heading up along Bear Creek to Evergreen, cutting over toward I-70 on Evergreen Parkway, and then taking Jefferson County Road 65 from Bergen Park over to old US 40 alongside I-70, and finally down to where that road meets old US 6 coming up out of Clear Creek Canyon. Then we had no choice but to get on the interstate for a few miles.

We got off I-70 to go over Loveland Pass, down the other side and onto the Shadow Mountain Road to go around that reservoir, over to Frisco and back on the slab. Then off again at Copper Mountain to go up Fremont Pass to Leadville, where we stopped for lunch.

After lunch we headed down to Twin Lakes and turned up over Independence Pass. That brought us down to Carbondale but no way were we interested in continuing to Glenwood Springs on I-70; we turned south and went up over McClure Pass and down to Paonia. That put us on CO 92 heading west but at the tiny town of Austin we took a shortcut north to connect with CO 65 at Orchard City, on through Cedaredge and over the Grand Mesa.

Our day was getting long at this point but the folks in the lead are go-fast guys and there was no traffic so we probably crossed the Grand Mesa in record time, coming on down finally to I-70 and blasting on into Grand Junction as the rain started falling. Just as we reached the shelter of the motel entryway the skies opened up briefly and then we had a terrific rainbow.

And that’s how you cover 400 miles on a trip the map says is about 250 miles. Our ride was a lot prettier than the interstate, a lot more twisty, and we got up high where the leaves were already turning. A beautiful day to ride. A very auspicious start to the trip.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker if you buy your 3-year old niece a Harley-Davidson t-shirt.

Most of this website was built more than a few years ago now but it’s never really finished. There is always stuff that needs to be updated and there are always roads I want to pay more attention to. And more and more those roads are unpaved. I mean, let’s face it, I’ve already addressed most of the paved roads in the state that are worthy of attention, but there are lots of unpaved roads, and some of them are fabulous.

One area that has had my attention lately is the area around Cripple Creek. Unlike the pages I’ve built for passes and for canyons, the page I envision for Cripple Creek would focus on all the roads leading to it. Because there are quite a few of them. And there’s not a one of them that’s not interesting or worth riding. But they’re not all paved.

With all this in mind, I headed out last week by myself to refamiliarize myself and to shoot photos to go on this new page. It turned out to be a longer day than I had anticipated, but man did I have a good time.

I headed out of Denver on US 285 as far as the turn-off at Pine Junction, going south on CO 126 through Pine and down to Deckers, where the road becomes CO 67. Up to this point, amazingly, it had been cool enough that I wore a down vest over my t-shirt inside my mesh jacket. I stopped at Deckers to use the john and stretch my legs and I took the vest off now.

CO 67 continues south from Deckers until it reaches Woodland Park and there I turned west on US 24. This took me the short distance to Divide, where I turned south once again on CO 67. Actually, it was CO 67 all the way; US 24 and CO 67 are the same along this stretch.

Heading south on CO 67 is the main road into Cripple Creek and all by itself it is quite scenic. The road rides high and there are numerous view points with nice scenery. And to top it off, as you crest the hill and descend steeply into Cripple Creek you have just gone over Tenderfoot Pass. Not that it’s well marked or anything, but it’s there.

But I didn’t go that route. Just a few miles before Cripple Creek CO 67 does a hard right but if you go straight you’ll be on Teller County Road 81, which goes to Victor. I don’t know why but I’ve always had the idea this road was unpaved, but it isn’t. It’s paved all the way. And, of course, the paved road goes on around to Cripple Creek so it’s a loop.

Victor was where I was to pick up the first of the day’s gravel roads: the Phantom Canyon Road. Coming this direction you actually come to the Phantom Canyon Road before you even get into Victor. I saw the sign for County Road 86 and thought that might be it but went on into town before I stopped to check the map. Sure enough. No matter, it wasn’t more than half a mile.

So I turned down County Road 86 and I had a little trepidation. The truth is, although I’ve had this V-Strom for a number of years now, and I got it specifically to be able to ride off the pavement, I just haven’t done all that much of it. Certainly not as much as I have wanted to do. And at this point, what dirt-riding skills I have developed were a bit rusty.

Not to worry. The road was amazingly smooth. So smooth, in fact, that it appeared it had only recently been graded. That impression was confirmed in a short while when I encountered the road grader at work.

The Phantom Canyon Road used to be a narrow-gauge train route so there were a couple tunnels cut through sheer rock walls and a lot of the road hugs the cliff with canyon way down below–and of course no guard rails and not so wide that two cars can pass comfortably unless one hangs back in wider spot when they see the other one coming. Absolutely fine for motorcycles, though.

Altogether, from Victor to where you hit US 50 east of Canon City it’s about 34 miles. It’s slow going so figure on an hour minimum. And it really is a pretty good road all the way, especially right now. You won’t be disappointed in the scenery.

I stopped in Canon City for lunch and that’s where I’ll leave this today. I’ll pick up the tale next time.

Biker Quote for Today

Why motorcycles are better than women: If your Motorcycle is too soft, you can get different shocks.

Everybody’s familiar with what some people call the Minnesota Good-Bye, right? That’s where you spend half an hour talking as your guests get up to leave, then maybe you see them to the door and talk some more, and then you go out with them to their car and talk some more before they finally drive away.

Yeah, that’s fine if you’re the chatty type but if you really just want to get going and someone in your group won’t shut up it can be pretty annoying.

On a motorcycle ride there can be something similar. Let’s say you and your buddies have been out on a week-long ride, like the OFMC does each year, and it’s the last day and you’re headed home. You’re sticking together but it’s starting to take on a horses-headed-for-the-stable feel to it. But then you stop one last time to get gas, stretch your legs, or whatever, and say your good-byes.

Then you get back on the bikes and head out but you’re still riding together. And even as you get closer to town and get into heavier traffic, which can make sticking together harder, you still more or less try to stick together. Until finally someone peels off in their home direction but still everyone else tries to stick together. Until either you totally break up in different directions or traffic just makes it impossible. The long good-bye.

I was really kind of relieved a few weeks ago when the OFMC was coming back to town. We left Walden, got gas in Kremmling, and made one last stop for ice cream–and good-byes–in Empire. Great ride guys, good to see you all . . . all that.

And then we got on the bikes and Dennis took off like a bat out of hell. In just a minute or two he was totally out of sight. Not really feeling a need to stick with Bill, I stuck with him anyway but before we made it to Idaho Springs we were in heavy traffic and definitely separated. So I didn’t even try. We’ve been together a week, we said our good-byes. What point would there be?

And that was nice. It was quick. It was clean. And it just totally uncomplicated things. I’m heading for the stable, I’m not concerned with the other horses. Every horse for himself. I approve of the short good-bye.

Biker Quote for Today

Sons of Arthritis: Ibuprofen Chapter

There’s probably no one in the RMMRC who knows these roads better than Tim, so when Tim planned a ride to Guffey for lunch you knew it was going to be a good one.

A good-sized group assembled at the Phillips 66 out in Morrison and we headed out US 285 through Conifer, over Kenosha Pass, and down into Jefferson. We turned south on Park County Road 77 (Tarryall Road) past Tarryall Reservoir–thus the name–and picked up US 24 at Lake George. I hadn’t been along that road recently and I was surprised anew at how pretty it was, first of all, and also at how green South Park still is this late in the season.

From Lake George we headed east just to Florissant and then turned south on Teller County Road 1. If you stay on it all the way, this road will take you into Cripple Creek via the back way, and it’s a terrific motorcycle road. But we turned right off at Teller County Road 11 and then turned right off that onto Teller County Road 112. Crossing into Park County the road becomes Park County Road 102 and after some twisting and turning you come to Guffey. Just a few miles past Guffey the road ends at CO 9, coming down from Hartsel and up from Parkdale, near the Royal Gorge.

It had been years since I had been through Guffey, and I’ve never stopped there. This is quite the little town. Coming in from the east the main road is lined with really, really old cars, tractors and a lot of other stuff. Talk about character! And then the road does a quick right-left and in that bend is the Freshwater Saloon, home of The Corona’s at Freshwater.

On a pre-ride scouting visit a week earlier this place had not been busy so we weren’t expecting it to be this day, but that didn’t anticipate the big biker crowd the restaurant had been alerted was coming. We barely got seated before this thundering horde of Harleys roared in and took up the entire area set aside for them. We were glad we got our lunch orders in first.

After lunch we headed back the way we came in, out 102/112, 11, and 1, up a point where, instead of going all the way to Florissant, we turned east on Teller County Road 42, a road I had never been on before. This turned out to be a cut-off that takes you much more directly to US 24 just outside of Divide. Nice to know this road is there.

We took US 24 to Woodland Park and then turned north on CO 67, up to Deckers, and then CO 126 to Buffalo Creek. I had been thinking at this point about Sunday afternoon traffic coming down out of the mountains on US 285, and not looking forward to it, but apparently so had Tim. So at Buffalo Creek we turned off onto the West Platte River Road, which runs along the South Platte River. Just past Foxton we turned onto Foxton Road, again headed north to US 285.

But again, Tim was not planning on riding 285. We turned right onto Running Deer Road, which connects to Broken Arrow Drive, which then connects to Pleasant Park Road, which becomes High Grade Road winds around and takes you down into the Little Bear Creek, now being called Deer Creek Road. This finally runs into Deer Creek Canyon and the Deer Creek Canyon Road, which comes out of the hills at Wadsworth, just south of C-470. So there we were–all the way down without any Sunday afternoon traffic. Good job Tim!

At this point the group scattered and I made my way home. It had not only been a really nice ride, it was a great day for riding. Glad I got to take advantage of it.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker when someone says you have an “iron butt” and it’s a compliment.

I had never heard of Exit Tours until Mike Brown contacted me. When he told me he was in the motorcycle tour business I was eager to talk, and before that I hurried to look at his sites. Far from enlightening me, the sites left me puzzled. There are several references to “the club.” Now I really wanted to talk.

In brief, Exit Tours is a club for people who want to ride off-road with others of a similar inclination. To go on a club ride the fee is $199. Membership is $399 per year, with your first club ride at no charge, so really, $200 per year assuming you go on at least one ride.

The ride fee gets you GPS tracks, meals, a t-shirt, camping fees covered, and the camaraderie. Plus, sometimes, portaging your gear from one night’s stop to the next one, although most rides are loops that end back at the same spot. None of that stuff comes free, except the camaraderie, so thus you have the fee. And I assume the club pays Mike for his efforts in arranging all this. Thus you have the club as a business model. Or, as Mike said, “It makes it so I don’t have to pay to ride.”

I have known other tour operators whose main purpose is really to get their own travel either free or at a discount. This appears to be a functional business model. It also keeps down the red tape. If a business is going to operate on public land there are required permits. For a club to just ride through there is no such requirement.

And it does seem to actually function like a club. Mike said that since 2012 he has had about 800 people on these rides but there are a core of about 30 who come repeatedly and who pitch in on the work.

This is not a company offering training or that sort of thing. You are expected to bring your own bike and know how to use it. The rides are either dual-sport, adventure rides, or trail rides. Different loops are mapped out so you can choose whichever is right for your skill level.

Rides are primarily within Colorado but some dip into New Mexico and some are in California.

Summing it up, Mike described the club as being “for guys who know how to ride, but not where to ride, and want to ride with others and make new friends.” That sounds like something I could be very interested in but Mike tells me my V-Strom would not usually cut it on their routes–not enough ground clearance. He did say, however, that there is one ride they do where the V-Strom would work. I’m interested.

Biker Quote for Today

You know you’re a biker if you stare longer at the pictures of the bikes in Easyriders than the naked women.

The blazing hot weather finally broke overnight while the OFMC were in Torrington. We came out in the morning and the whole place was enveloped in fog. Really? Where did this come from. More importantly, the weather was a lot cooler than the 100-plus we had had for most of a week.

We headed out in the fog, going south on US 85, which later turns southwest toward Cheyenne. This was some of the flatest, straightest road we had been on.

We got out of the fog but it stayed cooler and then there was an amazing thing: the sky was clear and blue. All week long, everywhere we had been, there had been a haze from the smoke from all the forest fires all over the west. All of a sudden the sky was actually blue!

US 85 hits I-25 a little north of Cheyenne and we got on it but then off again just a few exits later. The plan was to take WY 210 west to Laramie. Things got a little odd here.

The exit sign said this was the turn-off for WY 210 but there was an “Exit Closed” barricade across half the exit. The car in front of us ignored the sign and turned off and we did the same. At the bottom of the ramp there was no way to go anywhere except to the right, toward the closed entrance to Warren Air Force Base. We had to make a left-hand loop around the median to head south and then make a quick right to get onto WY 210. What a strange intersection.

We had been riding non-stop since leaving Torrington so I was on the look-out for a place to pull over. There really wasn’t anywhere to pull off, though, until we went past Curt Gowdy State Park and got into the Medicine Bow National Forest. Yes, we were ready for a break!

WY 210 is a very nice alternate to taking I-80 between Cheyenne and Laramie. It meanders through the hills and is lightly traveled. Perfect for just putting along. About 15 miles shy of Laramie, however, it ends and you have to ride I-80 the rest of the way in.

We got off the interstate in the west side of Laramie, at WY 230 and followed 230 into the Snowy Range. I screwed up on this one, though. We cruised along on 230 and I kept expecting to see mountain peaks and alpine lakes but they never showed. Looking at the map later I saw we should have turned off 230 after just a mile or two, onto WY 130, the Snowy Range Road. WY 130 is the scenic route; WY 230 is the direct route, if you’re heading toward Colorado and North Park. Taking 130 would have added about 50 miles to the ride, bringing us out just south of Saratoga onto the road that runs down from Saratoga through Riverside and on down into Colorado. We had plenty of time so an extra 50 miles would have been fine, and it would have been a much nicer ride.

One thing we would have missed, however, was a semi loaded with huge bales of hay pulled off with his load listing heavily to the left side. That was a sight. At least the guy managed to get stopped without losing his load. But it was going to be a lot of work for him get that all reloaded and strapped down properly.

We got into Walden and settled in out motel. While we were at dinner it rained hard and for the first time on this trip the evening got downright cold. Taking walks to call our wives we needed sweatshirts or jackets! None of this 94 degrees at 10 p.m. stuff now.

The next morning we had some issues to figure out.

Bill and Dennis got up earlier than me and walked down to the Mad Moose for breakfast. As I headed down there later I stopped at the next-door gas station/convenience store to see if they had any bananas. I always want a banana in the morning.

No bananas but the lady at the counter told me that CO 125, the direct road down to US 40 at Granby, was closed due to mudslides. Not only that, CO 14 over Cameron Pass and down the Poudre Canyon was also closed due to flash flooding. Yow! How far out of the way are we going to have to go? Normally the last day, riding home, is totally mundane. Not this year.

The good thing was that CO 14 down to US 40 at Muddy Pass was fine and US 40 itself was fine, so it was only a modest detour. We blasted along through Kremmling, Granby, Winter Park, over Berthoud Pass, and made one last stop at the ice cream spot in Empire. We said our good-byes there and very quickly got separated in the heavy I-70 traffic. One more OFMC trip in the books.

Biker Quote for Today

100 reasons not to date a biker: 6. We crash. It’ll cost a small fortune to fix the bike, and you’ll have to help us in the bathroom until we get the screws out of our collarbone.