Passes & Canyons Blog

Motorcycles filtering to the front in Madrid.

We got home a few days ago from three weeks in Spain and of course I paid a lot of attention to the motorcycling scene over there and have some thoughts to pass along.

The first thing that struck me was how, unlike Paris or Rome, Madrid was actually not engulfed in small motorcycles and scooters. Yes, there were far more of them than you’ll see in any U.S. city, but not as many as in those other capitals. I think part of that may be that in Madrid–and in all of the Spanish cities we visited–the streets are generally wider, making things less congested and therefore the benefit of two-wheeling it is lessened. Just my speculation.

I was also interested to see that the Spanish seem to do a lot less lane-splitting. That seemed to be due to there not being enough room to get through up the middle when traffic stopped at red lights. Instead, the riders would filter to the front as much as they could by riding in the gutter–or even up on the sidewalk–or riding down the center stripe or even over into the oncoming lane. Then, as everywhere, when the light changed they would blast ahead.

Small bikes and scooters, and even a surprising number of larger bikes, were very common throughout the older, medieval areas of the cities where the streets are extremely narrow. We had rain off and on and I had to wonder how their tires gripped on the cobblestones and marble that were so common. I have a pair of Rockport shoes I took along and they slipped like crazy on wet marble, so much so that I quit wearing them if it was wet out or rain threatened. Presumably the tires had better grip.

I noticed how many of the scooter riders cruise along with one foot down. It makes sense. In the stop and go of working your way through dense city traffic you would forever be lifting your feet and putting them back down again. Many just don’t bother.

The city with the most bikes and scooters turned out to be Barcelona, the last stop on our trip. At last I was seeing the hordes of bikes I had expected to see in Madrid. Mostly scooters. Here it was amazing how sometimes almost entire blocks were given over to motorcycle/scooter parking only, and every slot was in use. Rather than stop in traffic and roll backward into a parking slot, the common approach was to pull up on the sidewalk and drive straight into the slot off the curb. Barcelona also has a large number of broad streets so actual lane-splitting, coming up the middle between lanes of cars, was much more common.

It was particularly interesting on Sunday, April 24, when we were driving from Sevilla to Arcos de la Frontera and the roads were full of motorcycles. Motorcycles by the hundreds, if not thousands. What, does every Spaniard go riding in the country on the weekend? I couldn’t believe how many bikes there were.

Well, we figured it out. We got to Arcos and were having beers and tapas in the bar at our hotel and they had the TV on. They were reporting on the Spanish Gran Prix, which had been held that day in nearby Jerez de la Frontera. All those bikes we saw were people riding home after the race. Valentino Rossi won, by the way, so he’s apparently not totally washed up yet, though he’s no longer the top dog he once was.

Most of the Spanish countryside we saw was not very interesting, and didn’t look like particularly compelling riding country. The one place that was not true was in the de la Frontera area. This area of what they call the Spanish white hill towns is, as the name suggests, a very hilly area. Narrow, twisty roads going up high with fabulous views. It’s probably like that up north in the Pyrenees, too, so if you ever go to Spain to ride just head straight for the good parts.

Biker Quote for Today

Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations.

Steele's Cycles is the Denver motorcycle graveyard.

Steele’s is certainly still there. I’ve found a few things I needed for my 1980 Honda there. This early 2009 post is definitely still relevant.

Like elephants, motorcycles have their common burial grounds where they go to die. Unlike elephants, parts off these dead bikes come back to keep their compatriots alive.

In Denver, the motorcycle graveyard is located just west off Santa Fe Blvd. at Union. It is called Steele’s Cycles. The address is 2025 W. Union Ave.

Steele’s sells a bit of everything. Their showroom holds about 80 bikes of all sorts, from cruisers to dirt bikes with a good share of sport bikes. Accessories and other parts are stored inside as well, and then there is the outside.

Outside you’ll find the carcasses of hundreds of motorcycles of all makes and models. If you’re looking for a frame, or a fork, or a crankcase for a particular model you can probably find it here. Just be prepared to spend some time finding it. Bikes are grouped by make but it may not be easy to recognize your model with half its parts gone.

Steele’s bills itself at “Colorado’s oldest and largest new and used motorcycle parts source. They also perform service and they sell new parts as well as used ones.

Long-time Steele’s employee Bob Burkler observes that while the bad economy is hurting everyone, salvage is “probably a pretty good business to be in right now. Someone who might have just gone to a dealer for a new part might come here now to get that part for less.” He also notes that the demand for small bikes is up a lot. Steele’s sells used bikes of all sorts but does not have much in the way of scooters.

Burkler also says that Steele’s is a good place for anyone with an older bike. Dealerships will tell you right out that they do not want to do service on older bikes, but that is what Steele’s specializes in.

So. Looking for a headlight for that 1980 Honda CB? Need a front fender for that 1987 Virago? How about an entire motor kit for a 2002 Suzuki GSXR 600? Steele’s may very well have just what you need.

Hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday. Call 303-781-5339.

Two wheels, three wheels, and four wheels--they all raced on the ice.

Harry’s Roamers is still going strong and I’m pretty sure the information here is just as good now as it was then (except the dates, of course).

Two wheels, four wheels, three wheels, and even third wheels, they all raced on the ice. The ice racing season for Harry’s Roamers Motorcycle Club started today and will run four more times in the next five weeks.

A frozen lake up at Rainbow Falls Park, south of Deckers along CO 67, provides the venue. Racers drill sheet metal screws into their tires to provide traction, or they run on bare tires with sipes cut in the treads. The ones with screws go so fast and take the curves leaned over so far you can’t believe they’re on ice.

I had really hoped to have a slide show here for you to see a dozen or so of the terrific photos I got, but our slideshow functionality is not working at the moment so I guess you have to be satisfied for now with a couple. Once the slideshows are working again I’ll post a bunch more pix.

Tom Flint, this year’s vice president of the club, told me they have about 40 members and are the oldest motorcycle club in Colorado. In addition to ice racing, the club takes one five-day trip each summer, one day trip each month during the summer, and goes dirt-biking in the Rampart Range every Tuesday while the weather is warm. Occasionally they will also sponsor a vintage motocross event.

Two wheels, three wheels, and four wheels–they all
raced on the ice

The bikes used on the ice are no different than any street bike except for the studded tires and a special type of fender that helps prevent mishaps from getting a foot caught between it and the tire. Riders are all ages, from retirees to tykes so small you would expect to see them on tricycles. In fact you do see some of them on tricycles–their racing bikes are fitted with training wheels or outriggers.

The club raises money at their events and donates it to a variety of charities. Tom said they like to keep it in the biker community but they give a lot of money to a lot of different causes.

“It’s a great spectator sport, it’s a family affair, we have lots of kids here,” said Tom.

If you’re interested in joining in the fun, there will be races on Jan. 11, Jan. 18, Jan. 25, and Feb. 8. Racing starts at 10 a.m. and figure at least an hour and a half from Denver. Admission is $8 and kids under 12 are free.

Dress warmly!

Biker Quote for Today

Only cool grandparents ride motorcycles.